Original Posted By: "Charles N. Campbell"
I'll bet they ignored the questionaire! :-)ClifIf a man is alone in the forest and says something,is he still wrong? SomeonePS- I've added this to my "Quotes" folder. I have difficulty not being jealous of birds. They have wings and I don't. Steve D________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 09:47:51 -0400Subject: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: "Charles N. Campbell"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paintUh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So Idid not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I amnot going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are usedin the manufacturing process.Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and geta mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washerfluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paintanother paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. Iactually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them anddid so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson runningaround. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLPpaint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray andwould not sand unless there is a flaw.I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fanblowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shareda 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hunga blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of hiscamping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not coveredwill get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushingand sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in hisgarage he did not mind.I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 incheswide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I stillhave a bunch left over.Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures.I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaperworked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint tocreep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember thebrands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box andused it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. newmasking tape was for sharp edges.I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread outbetter, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.Enjoy painting, I did.Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,Steve D.On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house> paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric> being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using> Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would> appreciate any help. Chuck>> *>>> *>>-- Blue Skies,Steve D________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:17:51 -0400Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paintUh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So Idid not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I amnot going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are usedin the manufacturing process.Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and geta mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washerfluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paintanother paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. Iactually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them anddid so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson runningaround. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLPpaint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray andwould not sand unless there is a flaw.I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fanblowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shareda 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hunga blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of hiscamping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not coveredwill get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushingand sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in hisgarage he did not mind.I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 incheswide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I stillhave a bunch left over.Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures.I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaperworked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint tocreep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember thebrands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box andused it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. newmasking tape was for sharp edges.I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread outbetter, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.Enjoy painting, I did.Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,Steve D.On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house> paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric> being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using> Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would> appreciate any help. Chuck>> *>>> *>>-- Blue Skies,Steve D________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:17:51 -0400Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: Gary Boothe
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paintYes, I sanded my finish. I would not do it again if I used a spray rig. Butif I rollered it, I would sand, it is not hard. watch malcom's videos.The Glossier the paint the more shiny and the more flaws will show. I didSemi Gloss, Kind of shiny but my bad technique can still be seen. When Isanded it to took the gloss off. I think next time I will spray the planewith semi Gloss and not sand. Or I may go Satin and not floss if it is a"military" paint job.I did find out, from a buddy who painted his plane with rollers, that youcannot use harbor freight sponge rollers. He said a denser foam worked wellfor his. He did a neat WWI German camouflage paint job. I think his isSatin and looks great.There are several planes at my home airport painted with latex. One lookslike Imron. Wow it is sharp. One looks very dull. Looks like it is flatpaint put on with cheap brushes. But they are all painted and they all fly(But mine.)Blue Skies,Steve DOn Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:> Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush> for the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart> video the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish> coats. I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The> Weiner Dog videos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a> very high shine on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of> sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a> high gloss look which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I> don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand> your finish? Chuck>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch > wrote:>>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So>> I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am>> not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used>> in the manufacturing process.>>>> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20>> foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)>>>> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and>> get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer>> fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.>> Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.>>>> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint>> another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I>> actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and>> did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running>> around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.>>>> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?>>>> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP>> paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and>> would not sand unless there is a flaw.>>>> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan>> blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared>> a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung>> a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his>> camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered>> will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,>> and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.>> So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing>> and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his>> garage he did not mind.>>>> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches>> wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still>> have a bunch left over.>>>> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning>> mixtures. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that>> were cheaper worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the>> paint to creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't>> remember the brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a>> cardboard box and used it again to tape covers over various items not to be>> painted. new masking tape was for sharp edges.>>>> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread>> out better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.>>>> Enjoy painting, I did.>>>> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,>> Steve D.>>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell > charlescampbell1924(at)gmail.com> wrote:>>>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex>>> house paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the>>> fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was>>> using Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap>>> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you>>> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what>>> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would>>> appreciate any help. Chuck>>>>>> *>>>>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>>>> *>>>>>>>>>>>> -->> Blue Skies,>> Steve D>>>> *>>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> *>>>>> *>>> *>>-- Blue Skies,Steve D________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paintYes, I sanded my finish. I would not do it again if I used a spray rig. Butif I rollered it, I would sand, it is not hard. watch malcom's videos.The Glossier the paint the more shiny and the more flaws will show. I didSemi Gloss, Kind of shiny but my bad technique can still be seen. When Isanded it to took the gloss off. I think next time I will spray the planewith semi Gloss and not sand. Or I may go Satin and not floss if it is a"military" paint job.I did find out, from a buddy who painted his plane with rollers, that youcannot use harbor freight sponge rollers. He said a denser foam worked wellfor his. He did a neat WWI German camouflage paint job. I think his isSatin and looks great.There are several planes at my home airport painted with latex. One lookslike Imron. Wow it is sharp. One looks very dull. Looks like it is flatpaint put on with cheap brushes. But they are all painted and they all fly(But mine.)Blue Skies,Steve DOn Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:> Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush> for the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart> video the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish> coats. I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The> Weiner Dog videos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a> very high shine on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of> sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a> high gloss look which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I> don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand> your finish? Chuck>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch > wrote:>>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So>> I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am>> not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used>> in the manufacturing process.>>>> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20>> foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)>>>> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and>> get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer>> fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.>> Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.>>>> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint>> another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I>> actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and>> did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running>> around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.>>>> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?>>>> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP>> paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and>> would not sand unless there is a flaw.>>>> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan>> blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared>> a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung>> a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his>> camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered>> will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,>> and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.>> So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing>> and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his>> garage he did not mind.>>>> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches>> wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still>> have a bunch left over.>>>> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning>> mixtures. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that>> were cheaper worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the>> paint to creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't>> remember the brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a>> cardboard box and used it again to tape covers over various items not to be>> painted. new masking tape was for sharp edges.>>>> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread>> out better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.>>>> Enjoy painting, I did.>>>> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,>> Steve D.>>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell > charlescampbell1924(at)gmail.com> wrote:>>>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex>>> house paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the>>> fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was>>> using Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap>>> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you>>> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what>>> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would>>> appreciate any help. Chuck>>>>>> *>>>>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>>>> *>>>>>>>>>>>> -->> Blue Skies,>> Steve D>>>> *>>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> *>>>>> *>>> *>>-- Blue Skies,Steve D________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: "Douwe Blumberg"
Charles,I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, using their cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer coats (KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with a crossed-stroke brush look.My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar application, except that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, primer and finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the paint.Gary BootheSent from my iPad> On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:> > Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush for the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart video the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats. I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog videos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high shine on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss look which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand your finish? Chuck> >> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch wrote:>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used in the manufacturing process.>> >> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20 foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)>> >> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave. Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.>> >> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.>> >> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?>> >> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and would not sand unless there is a flaw.>> >> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his garage he did not mind.>> >> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still have a bunch left over.>> >> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaper worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and used it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new masking tape was for sharp edges. >> >> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread out better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig. >> >> Enjoy painting, I did.>> >> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,>> Steve D.>> >>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would appreciate any help. Chuck>>> >>> >>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>>> tp://forums.matronics.com>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution>>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Blue Skies,>> Steve D>> >> >> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>> tp://forums.matronics.com>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution>> > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D> ________________________________________________________________________________
Charles,I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, using their cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer coats (KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with a crossed-stroke brush look.My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar application, except that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, primer and finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the paint.Gary BootheSent from my iPad> On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:> > Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush for the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart video the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats. I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog videos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high shine on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss look which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand your finish? Chuck> >> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch wrote:>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used in the manufacturing process.>> >> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20 foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)>> >> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave. Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.>> >> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.>> >> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?>> >> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and would not sand unless there is a flaw.>> >> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his garage he did not mind.>> >> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still have a bunch left over.>> >> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaper worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and used it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new masking tape was for sharp edges. >> >> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread out better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig. >> >> Enjoy painting, I did.>> >> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,>> Steve D.>> >>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell wrote:>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would appreciate any help. Chuck>>> >>> >>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>>> tp://forums.matronics.com>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution>>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Blue Skies,>> Steve D>> >> >> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>> tp://forums.matronics.com>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution>> > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D> ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: Ray Krause
Larry Vetter wrote:> A question for you Corvair flyers. What Dia. and pitch props are you using andwhat kind of static, or takeoff RPM are you getting. I know a lot of you areusing the WW conversion. Mine is the BP conversion so the fan is still on it.Not sure if that makes a lot of difference or not....So, have at it, and thankyou in advance.> LarryHave a WW 2700 conversion with a 66x30 Tennessee . Get 2850 static and 3000 fullthrottle level flight. Took off this morning (East of Colorado Springs CO) at8500 ft DA on the runway and got almost 500 fpm at 60 mph.Rick H--------Rick HollandNX6819ZRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Larry Vetter wrote:> A question for you Corvair flyers. What Dia. and pitch props are you using andwhat kind of static, or takeoff RPM are you getting. I know a lot of you areusing the WW conversion. Mine is the BP conversion so the fan is still on it.Not sure if that makes a lot of difference or not....So, have at it, and thankyou in advance.> LarryHave a WW 2700 conversion with a 66x30 Tennessee . Get 2850 static and 3000 fullthrottle level flight. Took off this morning (East of Colorado Springs CO) at8500 ft DA on the runway and got almost 500 fpm at 60 mph.Rick H--------Rick HollandNX6819ZRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: "Charles N. Campbell"
________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2015 06:19:00 -0400Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2015 06:19:00 -0400Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: Ray Krause
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Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: gliderx5(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2015 22:15:33 +0000 (UTC)
________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2015 22:15:33 +0000 (UTC)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By:> "Gary Boothe"
Malcolm. Thanks for the continued awesome technical research and practicums. You are a great resource for those of us who simply want to benefit from your trials and errors. Can you provide the product number of the 3M Latex Fastbond Adhesive? Scott KnowltonFuselage/tail group/centre section built.. Wing assembly to go.... Sent from my iPhone> On Aug 4, 2015, at 6:18 PM, gliderx5(at)comcast.net wrote:> > You guys might know that I'm a bit of a "Gloss" nut, but I receintly painted a test panel (after priming) with 3 sprayed coats of semi-gloss (Lowes stuff), sanded lightly with 2000 grit wet to remove dust and such, and then waxed. The result is a nice smooth, military look. The semi-gloss seemed to cover quicker than the high gloss, thus only 3 coats needed. Of course it was a different brand too.> > I have not been washing the bare fabric, but it's probably a good idea. And I've switched from EkoBond to 3M FastBond Latex Contact Adhesive.> > Malcolm Morrison> www.wienerdogaero.com> >
Malcolm. Thanks for the continued awesome technical research and practicums. You are a great resource for those of us who simply want to benefit from your trials and errors. Can you provide the product number of the 3M Latex Fastbond Adhesive? Scott KnowltonFuselage/tail group/centre section built.. Wing assembly to go.... Sent from my iPhone> On Aug 4, 2015, at 6:18 PM, gliderx5(at)comcast.net wrote:> > You guys might know that I'm a bit of a "Gloss" nut, but I receintly painted a test panel (after priming) with 3 sprayed coats of semi-gloss (Lowes stuff), sanded lightly with 2000 grit wet to remove dust and such, and then waxed. The result is a nice smooth, military look. The semi-gloss seemed to cover quicker than the high gloss, thus only 3 coats needed. Of course it was a different brand too.> > I have not been washing the bare fabric, but it's probably a good idea. And I've switched from EkoBond to 3M FastBond Latex Contact Adhesive.> > Malcolm Morrison> www.wienerdogaero.com> >
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: Steven Dortch
Hey list,I am a stalker , finishing up my 601XL and looking at the Piet for a next man caveproject. I noticed an image of some winter flights in a Piet with continental engine withexhaust stacks. If you have stacks, what do you use for heat?Just curious P.S. If your near Murfreesboro/Middle TN and would like to share your Piet, I wouldlove to seat it!Rich SimmonsMurfreesboro, TnHangared at KMBT601XL-B 2 months out________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2015 18:57:46 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Hey list,I am a stalker , finishing up my 601XL and looking at the Piet for a next man caveproject. I noticed an image of some winter flights in a Piet with continental engine withexhaust stacks. If you have stacks, what do you use for heat?Just curious P.S. If your near Murfreesboro/Middle TN and would like to share your Piet, I wouldlove to seat it!Rich SimmonsMurfreesboro, TnHangared at KMBT601XL-B 2 months out________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2015 18:57:46 -0500Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Original Posted By: gliderx5(at)comcast.net
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Tail Hinge Alternative
Original Posted By: "Charles N. Campbell"
What's wrong with a welded hinge per the plans?Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2015 11:09:06 -0400Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Tail Hinge Alternative
What's wrong with a welded hinge per the plans?Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2015 11:09:06 -0400Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Tail Hinge Alternative