Original Posted By: "McNarry, John"
Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce andpicked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wifealso said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbersshould have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the bungeegives way.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: The tree grew!
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: jkahn(at)picasso.dehavilland.ca (John Kahn)
michael list wrote:> Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce> and> picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife> also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!>Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing itagain I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with goodresults, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be muchfaster and use up much less space.Stevee> On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers> should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the> bungee> gives way. I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.Stevee________________________________________________________________________________
michael list wrote:> Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce> and> picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife> also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!>Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing itagain I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with goodresults, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be muchfaster and use up much less space.Stevee> On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers> should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the> bungee> gives way. I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.Stevee________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:>> Steve Eldredge
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!>I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 tooth plywood>plainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all the cuts>in the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefully>made a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red. I>took an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a sliding table>jig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.>From these masters, I used an adjustable protractor to transfer the angles>directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3>days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Total cost>for the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for the>protractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version on two>3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig to get>exact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the same>procedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!>Good building,>-=Ian=-
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!>I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 tooth plywood>plainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all the cuts>in the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefully>made a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red. I>took an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a sliding table>jig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.>From these masters, I used an adjustable protractor to transfer the angles>directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3>days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Total cost>for the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for the>protractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version on two>3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig to get>exact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the same>procedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!>Good building,>-=Ian=-
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:> Steve Eldredge
I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 tooth plywoodplainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all the cutsin the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefullymade a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red. Itook an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a sliding tablejig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Total costfor the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for theprotractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version on two3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig to getexact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the sameprocedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!Good building,-=Ian=-
I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 tooth plywoodplainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all the cutsin the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefullymade a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red. Itook an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a sliding tablejig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Total costfor the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for theprotractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version on two3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig to getexact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the sameprocedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!Good building,-=Ian=-
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: Ian Holland
Ian,When you say bench saw is that the same as a portable table saw? I want tomake sure I get the right tools. Also, I'm not sure I know what a plainerblade is. Is it just a smooth cutting blade? Sorry to ask such simplequestions.Thanks,Brent Reed-----Original Message-----
Ian,When you say bench saw is that the same as a portable table saw? I want tomake sure I get the right tools. Also, I'm not sure I know what a plainerblade is. Is it just a smooth cutting blade? Sorry to ask such simplequestions.Thanks,Brent Reed-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:>> Brent Reed
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!>The bench saw was out of Sears and is a portable unit that you can wheel>around the workplace easily. The planer blade is a thin kerf saw (stepped>down) for about 2 inches. It gives a satin smooth finish that needs no>planing. The blade is ridgid enough that there is no wobble. I can't read>the specs on it other than it has 200 teeth. after doing the whole plane,>it is still extremely sharp. However, it does not see plywood or other>dulling substances. I used another blade to cut the plywood gussets, and>used a scroll saw for a lot of the gusset work. I also have a small band>saw which was used to cut the slots in the capstrip bending jig. The band>saw was the least used tool and I have two comments on that tool. 1. don't>bother! 2. If you must, don't get a cheap one!>-=Ian=->>----------
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!>The bench saw was out of Sears and is a portable unit that you can wheel>around the workplace easily. The planer blade is a thin kerf saw (stepped>down) for about 2 inches. It gives a satin smooth finish that needs no>planing. The blade is ridgid enough that there is no wobble. I can't read>the specs on it other than it has 200 teeth. after doing the whole plane,>it is still extremely sharp. However, it does not see plywood or other>dulling substances. I used another blade to cut the plywood gussets, and>used a scroll saw for a lot of the gusset work. I also have a small band>saw which was used to cut the slots in the capstrip bending jig. The band>saw was the least used tool and I have two comments on that tool. 1. don't>bother! 2. If you must, don't get a cheap one!>-=Ian=->>----------
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:> Brent Reed
The bench saw was out of Sears and is a portable unit that you can wheelaround the workplace easily. The planer blade is a thin kerf saw (steppeddown) for about 2 inches. It gives a satin smooth finish that needs noplaning. The blade is ridgid enough that there is no wobble. I can't readthe specs on it other than it has 200 teeth. after doing the whole plane,it is still extremely sharp. However, it does not see plywood or otherdulling substances. I used another blade to cut the plywood gussets, andused a scroll saw for a lot of the gusset work. I also have a small bandsaw which was used to cut the slots in the capstrip bending jig. The bandsaw was the least used tool and I have two comments on that tool. 1. don'tbother! 2. If you must, don't get a cheap one!-=Ian=-
The bench saw was out of Sears and is a portable unit that you can wheelaround the workplace easily. The planer blade is a thin kerf saw (steppeddown) for about 2 inches. It gives a satin smooth finish that needs noplaning. The blade is ridgid enough that there is no wobble. I can't readthe specs on it other than it has 200 teeth. after doing the whole plane,it is still extremely sharp. However, it does not see plywood or otherdulling substances. I used another blade to cut the plywood gussets, andused a scroll saw for a lot of the gusset work. I also have a small bandsaw which was used to cut the slots in the capstrip bending jig. The bandsaw was the least used tool and I have two comments on that tool. 1. don'tbother! 2. If you must, don't get a cheap one!-=Ian=-
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: "McNarry, John"
On Wed, 5 Nov 1997, Ian Holland wrote:> The bench saw was out of Sears and is a portable unit that you can wheel> around the workplace easily. The planer blade is a thin kerf saw (stepped> down) for about 2 inches. It gives a satin smooth finish that needs no> planing. The blade is ridgid enough that there is no wobble. I can't read> the specs on it other than it has 200 teeth. after doing the whole plane,> it is still extremely sharp. However, it does not see plywood or other> dulling substances. I used another blade to cut the plywood gussets, and> used a scroll saw for a lot of the gusset work. I also have a small band> saw which was used to cut the slots in the capstrip bending jig. The band> saw was the least used tool and I have two comments on that tool. 1. don't> bother! 2. If you must, don't get a cheap one!> -=Ian=-> Since I'm not building a Piet (I know, shame on me;-), this may not be quite as applicable as with a steel tube frame like mine. However, I've found that the bandsaw has been invaluable in the shop. I bought a Sears tilt-head, two speed bandsaw a couple of years ago. The tilting head allows for a huge table area compared to other band saws and the 2 speed pylleys allow a metal cutting blade to be used. Most of the fittings on my Christavia were cut with this saw. The slow speed is still a little high for metal cutting but it just means buying a couple of more blades.Just my $0.02Ken________________________________________________________________________________
On Wed, 5 Nov 1997, Ian Holland wrote:> The bench saw was out of Sears and is a portable unit that you can wheel> around the workplace easily. The planer blade is a thin kerf saw (stepped> down) for about 2 inches. It gives a satin smooth finish that needs no> planing. The blade is ridgid enough that there is no wobble. I can't read> the specs on it other than it has 200 teeth. after doing the whole plane,> it is still extremely sharp. However, it does not see plywood or other> dulling substances. I used another blade to cut the plywood gussets, and> used a scroll saw for a lot of the gusset work. I also have a small band> saw which was used to cut the slots in the capstrip bending jig. The band> saw was the least used tool and I have two comments on that tool. 1. don't> bother! 2. If you must, don't get a cheap one!> -=Ian=-> Since I'm not building a Piet (I know, shame on me;-), this may not be quite as applicable as with a steel tube frame like mine. However, I've found that the bandsaw has been invaluable in the shop. I bought a Sears tilt-head, two speed bandsaw a couple of years ago. The tilting head allows for a huge table area compared to other band saws and the 2 speed pylleys allow a metal cutting blade to be used. Most of the fittings on my Christavia were cut with this saw. The slow speed is still a little high for metal cutting but it just means buying a couple of more blades.Just my $0.02Ken________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: Ian Holland
Excellent response! Thank you.Brent Reed-----Original Message-----
Excellent response! Thank you.Brent Reed-----Original Message-----
> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: Steve Eldredge
> > michael list wrote:> > > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce> > and> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!> >> > Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be much> faster and use up much less space.> > Stevee> > > > > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the> > bungee> > gives way.> > I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.> > Stevee________________________________________________________________________________
> > michael list wrote:> > > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce> > and> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!> >> > Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be much> faster and use up much less space.> > Stevee> > > > > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the> > bungee> > gives way.> > I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.> > Stevee________________________________________________________________________________
>> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: Ian Holland
>>>> michael list wrote:>>>> > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce>> > and>> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife>> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!>> >>>>> Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it>> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good>> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be much>> faster and use up much less space.>>>> Stevee>>>>>>>> > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers>> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the>> > bungee>> > gives way.>>>> I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.>>>> Stevee>________________________________________________________________________________
>>>> michael list wrote:>>>> > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce>> > and>> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife>> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!>> >>>>> Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it>> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good>> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be much>> faster and use up much less space.>>>> Stevee>>>>>>>> > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers>> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the>> > bungee>> > gives way.>>>> I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.>>>> Stevee>________________________________________________________________________________
> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:> Ian Holland
> > Ian,> When you say bench saw is that the same as a portable table saw? I wantto> make sure I get the right tools. Also, I'm not sure I know what aplainer> blade is. Is it just a smooth cutting blade? Sorry to ask such simple> questions.> > Thanks,> Brent Reed> > > -----Original Message-----
> > Ian,> When you say bench saw is that the same as a portable table saw? I wantto> make sure I get the right tools. Also, I'm not sure I know what aplainer> blade is. Is it just a smooth cutting blade? Sorry to ask such simple> questions.> > Thanks,> Brent Reed> > > -----Original Message-----
> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:> >> Steve Eldredge
> Subject: Re: The tree grew!> > > > >I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 toothplywood> >plainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all thecuts> >in the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefully> >made a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red.I> >took an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a slidingtable> >jig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.> >From these masters, I used an adjustable protractor to transfer theangles> >directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3> >days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Totalcost> >for the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for the> >protractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version ontwo> >3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig toget> >exact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the same> >procedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!> >Good building,> >-=Ian=-
> Subject: Re: The tree grew!> > > > >I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 toothplywood> >plainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all thecuts> >in the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefully> >made a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red.I> >took an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a slidingtable> >jig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.> >From these masters, I used an adjustable protractor to transfer theangles> >directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3> >days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Totalcost> >for the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for the> >protractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version ontwo> >3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig toget> >exact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the same> >procedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!> >Good building,> >-=Ian=-
> >> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: michael list
> >>> >> michael list wrote:> >>> >> > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce> >> > and> >> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife> >> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!> >> >> >>> >> Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it> >> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good> >> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would bemuch> >> faster and use up much less space.> >>> >> Stevee> >>> >>> >>> >> > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers> >> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the> >> > bungee> >> > gives way.> >>> >> I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.> >>> >> Stevee> >________________________________________________________________________________
> >>> >> michael list wrote:> >>> >> > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce> >> > and> >> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs! Wife> >> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!> >> >> >>> >> Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it> >> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good> >> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would bemuch> >> faster and use up much less space.> >>> >> Stevee> >>> >>> >>> >> > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers> >> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the> >> > bungee> >> > gives way.> >>> >> I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.> >>> >> Stevee> >________________________________________________________________________________
>> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:>> Ian Holland
>>>> Ian,>> When you say bench saw is that the same as a portable table saw? I want>to>> make sure I get the right tools. Also, I'm not sure I know what a>plainer>> blade is. Is it just a smooth cutting blade? Sorry to ask such simple>> questions.>>>> Thanks,>> Brent Reed>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> Ian,>> When you say bench saw is that the same as a portable table saw? I want>to>> make sure I get the right tools. Also, I'm not sure I know what a>plainer>> blade is. Is it just a smooth cutting blade? Sorry to ask such simple>> questions.>>>> Thanks,>> Brent Reed>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By:>> >> Steve Eldredge
>> Subject: Re: The tree grew!>>>>>>>> >I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 tooth>plywood>> >plainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all the>cuts>> >in the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefully>> >made a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red.>I>> >took an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a sliding>table>> >jig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.>> >From these masters, I used an adjustable protractor to transfer the>angles>> >directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3>> >days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Total>cost>> >for the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for the>> >protractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version on>two>> >3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig to>get>> >exact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the same>> >procedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!>> >Good building,>> >-=Ian=-
>> Subject: Re: The tree grew!>>>>>>>> >I did all my cutting on a 10 inch bench saw, using a 95$ 200 tooth>plywood>> >plainer blade used exclusively for spruce only. This has done all the>cuts>> >in the plane without any problems. For the wing rib pieces I carefully>> >made a master set of carefully fitted pieces, and then painted them red.>I>> >took an old road sign that was thick aluminum and made up a sliding>table>> >jig similar to what was seen in one of the old articles in the BPA news.>> >From these masters, I used an adjustable protractor to transfer the>angles>> >directly to the cutting jig. This allowed me to make all rib pieces in 3>> >days (1250 pieces) All angles fit when they were put together. Total>cost>> >for the jig was about $2.00 for some small screws and $18.00 for the>> >protractor. When doing the sides, I laid out the full scale version on>two>> >3/4 inch plywood sheets on the floor and used the protractor and jig to>get>> >exact cuts. If I had to build another plain, I would use the same>> >procedure. Any questions, give me a hollar!>> >Good building,>> >-=Ian=-
>> >> Re: The tree grew!
Original Posted By: jkahn(at)picasso.dehavilland.ca (John Kahn)
>> >>>> >> michael list wrote:>> >>>> >> > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce>> >> > and>> >> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs!>Wife>> >> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!>> >> >>> >>>> >> Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it>> >> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good>> >> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be>much>> >> faster and use up much less space.>> >>>> >> Stevee>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >> > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers>> >> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the>> >> > bungee>> >> > gives way.>> >>>> >> I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.>> >>>> >> Stevee>> >>________________________________________________________________________________
>> >>>> >> michael list wrote:>> >>>> >> > Yippee! My spruce tree finally grew! Went down to Aircraft Spruce>> >> > and>> >> > picked up my rib capstrip and plywood. Time to make some ribs!>Wife>> >> > also said OK to new scroll saw. Another yippee!>> >> >>> >>>> >> Mike. I have a scroll saw, didn't use it much. If I were doing it>> >> again I would buy a power chop saw.I used a radial arm saw with good>> >> results, however a chop saw such as a makita or something would be>much>> >> faster and use up much less space.>> >>>> >> Stevee>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >> > On a safety note, any airplane using bungee cords as shock absorbers>> >> > should have a safety cable to prevent collapse of the gear if the>> >> > bungee>> >> > gives way.>> >>>> >> I used the split gear with 1/8" 7X7 stainless cable loops.>> >>>> >> Stevee>> >>________________________________________________________________________________