Pietenpol-List: on Sanding joints
Posted: Thu Jan 15, 1998 10:16 am
Original Posted By:> > Steve Eldredge
My understanding is that fine joinery techniques, such as violin building and airplane building don't join bare sanded surfaces. You can use anything you like to remove mass material to get the right angles and shapes including an industrial sander. The point is that when you finally apply the glue to the joint you want the pores of the wood open to get the best joint you can. Granted this was more of an issue when Resorcinol and Urea Formaldehyde glues were the norm. My guess is that you will find that even if material is removed with a sander it is recommended that the joint be scrapped or planed for the final gluing. With modern epoxies where mechanical bonding is the means of attachment this is less of an issue. (I would still prep the joint the same way however) I have read that some fine woodworkers recommend freshly breaking a piece of glass with a straight edge to final scrape the piece to be joined. The new glass edge is only good for a couple of passes before needing to be broken again. I didn't go to this extreme. I used a freshly sharpened hand plane.Your joint mileage may vary....*greatly*.May your joints be strong,SteveeOn Wednesday, January 14, 1998 5:13 PM, Doug Hunt [SMTP:ve6zh(at)cnnet.com] wrote:> Feel free to loose your cool at anytime(place silly icon here)Comercial> scarfing machines CAN be !you guessed it, jigged sanding drums,plus a 10:1> joint (MIN) allows for a large gluing surface.> Any credible publication on wood joinery will likely list all the> technical reasons why sanding is benifical,alot which have already been> submitted to the group.Common sense should not be overlooked(RIGHT BERNIE)> IN MY HONEST OPINION (dose not take all that long to type, dose it?)> ----------
My understanding is that fine joinery techniques, such as violin building and airplane building don't join bare sanded surfaces. You can use anything you like to remove mass material to get the right angles and shapes including an industrial sander. The point is that when you finally apply the glue to the joint you want the pores of the wood open to get the best joint you can. Granted this was more of an issue when Resorcinol and Urea Formaldehyde glues were the norm. My guess is that you will find that even if material is removed with a sander it is recommended that the joint be scrapped or planed for the final gluing. With modern epoxies where mechanical bonding is the means of attachment this is less of an issue. (I would still prep the joint the same way however) I have read that some fine woodworkers recommend freshly breaking a piece of glass with a straight edge to final scrape the piece to be joined. The new glass edge is only good for a couple of passes before needing to be broken again. I didn't go to this extreme. I used a freshly sharpened hand plane.Your joint mileage may vary....*greatly*.May your joints be strong,SteveeOn Wednesday, January 14, 1998 5:13 PM, Doug Hunt [SMTP:ve6zh(at)cnnet.com] wrote:> Feel free to loose your cool at anytime(place silly icon here)Comercial> scarfing machines CAN be !you guessed it, jigged sanding drums,plus a 10:1> joint (MIN) allows for a large gluing surface.> Any credible publication on wood joinery will likely list all the> technical reasons why sanding is benifical,alot which have already been> submitted to the group.Common sense should not be overlooked(RIGHT BERNIE)> IN MY HONEST OPINION (dose not take all that long to type, dose it?)> ----------