Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Hello everyone. I first wanted to build my own airplane in 2004. I bought the TonyBingelis books and some items from EAA (such as AC 43.13). I conducted muchresearch and decided the Pietenpol would be the perfect airplane.I've been reading the posts here for a long time and saved all the best and mostinformative discussions I could find. My goal was to not bother you with questionsalready answered. I'd like to thank you for all you've contributed andI'd also like to thank those with web pages and videos. I almost feel like I knowyou all. I recently joined the local EAA group, but have not yet been ableto meet anyone there.So, I'm actually making preparations to use my two car garage (no heat though;just studs and T111 siding).I recently decided to use the Corvair engine, assuming I can find one. I've readthe WW conversion manual and been to all the sites involving that engine. Ihope to attend Corvair College #21 in November (hum, should I bring my wife?).I still have some questions, and perhaps since I'm starting with a clean slate,maybe you'd like to make recommendations.I'd like to purchase raw lumber from Aircraft Spruce. Customer service seems goodfrom what I've read here. I want to make my own pieces, so I guess I go totheir site and just buy the lumber, not the 'kit', is that correct?Should I worry about humidity with storing the wood? Should I keep it in the house?Should I keep tabs on the humidity here (I'm close to Pocono Raceway in PA).I had an elevated hobby room in the garage which I've now taken apart except thefloor. The floor would make a solid work bench which is basically 4X8 and I'llcut out a 2 foot deep area on one (long) side, so lots of edge. I'm thinkingof mounting tools on the (new) table. I'm wondering if I go with the Tony Bingelisrecommendation of the 30 sq in table, what would I use the workbench for?Space should be OK as my wife will park outside when (and if) the time comes.I plan to cut and shape wood in the garage. Ribs will be glued in the house inmy loft. When spring comes, I'll work on fuselage and tail in the garage. If Ifind an engine, I can work on that during winter in the garage (I have thoseceiling mounted radiation heaters). I can also practice welding.Here's a list of tools I plan to buy. I'm wondering though, if I have a table saw,do I still need a band saw? Also, instead of an electric miter saw, I'm thinkingI'll buy the precision hand saw miter box (about $50). Thoughts?Bench grinder-Craftsman model 21124, a 6 inch 1/6 HP 2.1 amp (on sale for $47.25,normally $70).http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-6-hp-6 ... 24000PBand saw-Powertec 9 inch 1/2 HP 2.5 amps.http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BS900-Ba ... 67WB0GBelt sander-Porter-Cable #91036, 4" by 8" 5 ampshttp://www.lowes.com/pd_91036-46069-PCB420SA_? ... 63789Drill press-Craftsman 10" with laser trac (model 21900). 5 speeds at 6 amps, 2/3HP.http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-34-be ... 0000PTable saw-Craftsman 21807 with Laser trac is 15 amp, 10" job with 24" to rip.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 07Router-I can't decide between the Porter-Cable 690LR fixed basehttp://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690LR-Amp-F ... 0005QEVQad the DeWalt DW618PKhttp://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-Plunge-Fi ... 00006JKXEI have more on my mind, but I should probably get my workspace ready first. I haveto add that when I study the plans (I bought the complete set), I feel likeI'm getting in way over my head. I took a class in mechanical drawing in college,and I've designed and built a few big projects, plus I gutted and rebuilta bathroom, so I hope I have some aptitude for this. Let's put it this way,when I build something, I take all the parts out to make sure I have everythingand organize it.I'm looking forward to this project. I'm glad to be here.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Hello everyone. I first wanted to build my own airplane in 2004. I bought the TonyBingelis books and some items from EAA (such as AC 43.13). I conducted muchresearch and decided the Pietenpol would be the perfect airplane.I've been reading the posts here for a long time and saved all the best and mostinformative discussions I could find. My goal was to not bother you with questionsalready answered. I'd like to thank you for all you've contributed andI'd also like to thank those with web pages and videos. I almost feel like I knowyou all. I recently joined the local EAA group, but have not yet been ableto meet anyone there.So, I'm actually making preparations to use my two car garage (no heat though;just studs and T111 siding).I recently decided to use the Corvair engine, assuming I can find one. I've readthe WW conversion manual and been to all the sites involving that engine. Ihope to attend Corvair College #21 in November (hum, should I bring my wife?).I still have some questions, and perhaps since I'm starting with a clean slate,maybe you'd like to make recommendations.I'd like to purchase raw lumber from Aircraft Spruce. Customer service seems goodfrom what I've read here. I want to make my own pieces, so I guess I go totheir site and just buy the lumber, not the 'kit', is that correct?Should I worry about humidity with storing the wood? Should I keep it in the house?Should I keep tabs on the humidity here (I'm close to Pocono Raceway in PA).I had an elevated hobby room in the garage which I've now taken apart except thefloor. The floor would make a solid work bench which is basically 4X8 and I'llcut out a 2 foot deep area on one (long) side, so lots of edge. I'm thinkingof mounting tools on the (new) table. I'm wondering if I go with the Tony Bingelisrecommendation of the 30 sq in table, what would I use the workbench for?Space should be OK as my wife will park outside when (and if) the time comes.I plan to cut and shape wood in the garage. Ribs will be glued in the house inmy loft. When spring comes, I'll work on fuselage and tail in the garage. If Ifind an engine, I can work on that during winter in the garage (I have thoseceiling mounted radiation heaters). I can also practice welding.Here's a list of tools I plan to buy. I'm wondering though, if I have a table saw,do I still need a band saw? Also, instead of an electric miter saw, I'm thinkingI'll buy the precision hand saw miter box (about $50). Thoughts?Bench grinder-Craftsman model 21124, a 6 inch 1/6 HP 2.1 amp (on sale for $47.25,normally $70).http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-6-hp-6 ... 24000PBand saw-Powertec 9 inch 1/2 HP 2.5 amps.http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BS900-Ba ... 67WB0GBelt sander-Porter-Cable #91036, 4" by 8" 5 ampshttp://www.lowes.com/pd_91036-46069-PCB420SA_? ... 63789Drill press-Craftsman 10" with laser trac (model 21900). 5 speeds at 6 amps, 2/3HP.http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-34-be ... 0000PTable saw-Craftsman 21807 with Laser trac is 15 amp, 10" job with 24" to rip.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 07Router-I can't decide between the Porter-Cable 690LR fixed basehttp://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690LR-Amp-F ... 0005QEVQad the DeWalt DW618PKhttp://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-Plunge-Fi ... 00006JKXEI have more on my mind, but I should probably get my workspace ready first. I haveto add that when I study the plans (I bought the complete set), I feel likeI'm getting in way over my head. I took a class in mechanical drawing in college,and I've designed and built a few big projects, plus I gutted and rebuilta bathroom, so I hope I have some aptitude for this. Let's put it this way,when I build something, I take all the parts out to make sure I have everythingand organize it.I'm looking forward to this project. I'm glad to be here.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Hello John, and welcome to the best group of airplane builders on theplanet! I'm glad to see you've already gotten the Tony Bingelis books -they are invaluable as a resource to the Pietenpol Builder. Read themthoroughly and most of your questions will be answered. The rest you canprobably find answers for form this group (often, totally contradictoryanswers, but that's not necessarily a bad thing - it just requires you tosort out the good ideas from the not so good).As for bringing your wife to Corvair College, while I myself have notattended a Corvair College, I've heard nothing but good things about themand would doubt that your wife would be anything but welcome. Anytime youcan get your wife involved in your project, it can only be beneficial.I bought most of my spruce from Aircraft Spruce, but a substantial amountfrom Wickes Aircraft. I found both to provide good quality wood, but Wickesoften seemed to be able to deliver much more quickly. I also bought bulkpieces of wood as well as capstrips milled to size and here I would say youare much further ahead to buy the milled lumber rather than rip the piecesyourself from lumber. The additional cost is more than offset by the wastethat you will turn into sawdust, and the milled pieces are very accurate.Just determine the lengths you will need and order so many 1/4" x 1/2"capstrips and 1" x 1" longerons, etc.If possible, store your wood somewhere with relatively constant humidity. Ikept mine in my basement (where I also built the airplane). You will havefar less problems with warping if you keep it somewhere with fairly stablehumidity. If you must store it outdoors, keep it off the ground andcovered. Inside would be best.For workbenches, I made two 30" x 96" workbenches which could be boltedtogether to make a 16' long x 30" wide table. This was big enough toconstruct the fuselage on, and the 30" width was perfect, allowing plenty ofroom to work, and allowing easy reach across the table, where if you makethe table 48" wide you will have trouble reaching across it.As for tools, I rarely used my table saw (except for when I was rippingstock to make capstrips - once I realized how nice the milled capstrips wereI never used the table saw again). I only used a router to route the wingspars. I used the bandsaw extensively, both a 12" wood-cutting CraftsmanBandsaw and a 6" Grizzly metal-cutting bandsaw. The most useful woodworking tools I found to be the bandsaw and the beltsander. You will alsoneed a welding rig of some sort. I bought the Smith OxyAcetylen rig fromAircraft Spruce and found it entirely satisfactory. The drill press will benecessary as well.Do you have your plans yet? Have you thought about all the other decisionsbesides powerplant that will need to be made? Long or short fuselage?One-piece or 3-piece wing? Split gear or straight axle gear, etc.?I envy you to have all this before you. It will open your life to a wholenew world.Good Luck!Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Hello John, and welcome to the best group of airplane builders on theplanet! I'm glad to see you've already gotten the Tony Bingelis books -they are invaluable as a resource to the Pietenpol Builder. Read themthoroughly and most of your questions will be answered. The rest you canprobably find answers for form this group (often, totally contradictoryanswers, but that's not necessarily a bad thing - it just requires you tosort out the good ideas from the not so good).As for bringing your wife to Corvair College, while I myself have notattended a Corvair College, I've heard nothing but good things about themand would doubt that your wife would be anything but welcome. Anytime youcan get your wife involved in your project, it can only be beneficial.I bought most of my spruce from Aircraft Spruce, but a substantial amountfrom Wickes Aircraft. I found both to provide good quality wood, but Wickesoften seemed to be able to deliver much more quickly. I also bought bulkpieces of wood as well as capstrips milled to size and here I would say youare much further ahead to buy the milled lumber rather than rip the piecesyourself from lumber. The additional cost is more than offset by the wastethat you will turn into sawdust, and the milled pieces are very accurate.Just determine the lengths you will need and order so many 1/4" x 1/2"capstrips and 1" x 1" longerons, etc.If possible, store your wood somewhere with relatively constant humidity. Ikept mine in my basement (where I also built the airplane). You will havefar less problems with warping if you keep it somewhere with fairly stablehumidity. If you must store it outdoors, keep it off the ground andcovered. Inside would be best.For workbenches, I made two 30" x 96" workbenches which could be boltedtogether to make a 16' long x 30" wide table. This was big enough toconstruct the fuselage on, and the 30" width was perfect, allowing plenty ofroom to work, and allowing easy reach across the table, where if you makethe table 48" wide you will have trouble reaching across it.As for tools, I rarely used my table saw (except for when I was rippingstock to make capstrips - once I realized how nice the milled capstrips wereI never used the table saw again). I only used a router to route the wingspars. I used the bandsaw extensively, both a 12" wood-cutting CraftsmanBandsaw and a 6" Grizzly metal-cutting bandsaw. The most useful woodworking tools I found to be the bandsaw and the beltsander. You will alsoneed a welding rig of some sort. I bought the Smith OxyAcetylen rig fromAircraft Spruce and found it entirely satisfactory. The drill press will benecessary as well.Do you have your plans yet? Have you thought about all the other decisionsbesides powerplant that will need to be made? Long or short fuselage?One-piece or 3-piece wing? Split gear or straight axle gear, etc.?I envy you to have all this before you. It will open your life to a wholenew world.Good Luck!Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John,Welcome! You will do just fine. The skills you need that you don't alreadyhave you will pick up, little by little....and your two car garage is OK.Although all two car garages are not created equal, you can see in theattached that it all works out. I have been on my project about 3 1/2 years,now. On the weekends, I roll my wife's car out, and move the big piece ofwhateverI'mworkingon into that area. In this garage, I have two table saws(you only need one), band saw, drill press, bench grinder, sand blastcabinet, planer, 3 work benches, and two rolling stands for the wings. Thearea above the roll-up door also has an abandoned Zenith 601 center sectionand tail parts, plus a bunch of aluminum. Piet wings are built and barelyvisible above the car. It all goes to prove the old saying, "If you buildit, you will find the room." Oh...that's not an old saying? Well, someday itwill be.My advice - quit thinking and reading, and get to work! ...and, if you emailme off-list, I would be happy to tell you how much I love my Corvair engine!Happy building,Gary from CoolHere's a challenge: See if you can beat my record time for building wingribs!-----Original Message-----
John,Welcome! You will do just fine. The skills you need that you don't alreadyhave you will pick up, little by little....and your two car garage is OK.Although all two car garages are not created equal, you can see in theattached that it all works out. I have been on my project about 3 1/2 years,now. On the weekends, I roll my wife's car out, and move the big piece ofwhateverI'mworkingon into that area. In this garage, I have two table saws(you only need one), band saw, drill press, bench grinder, sand blastcabinet, planer, 3 work benches, and two rolling stands for the wings. Thearea above the roll-up door also has an abandoned Zenith 601 center sectionand tail parts, plus a bunch of aluminum. Piet wings are built and barelyvisible above the car. It all goes to prove the old saying, "If you buildit, you will find the room." Oh...that's not an old saying? Well, someday itwill be.My advice - quit thinking and reading, and get to work! ...and, if you emailme off-list, I would be happy to tell you how much I love my Corvair engine!Happy building,Gary from CoolHere's a challenge: See if you can beat my record time for building wingribs!-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
Welcome John!As for tooling, I think we are probably each a little different in our approach,so our preference in tools differs a bit. For example, I LOVE my band saw.I started my project by constructing my wing ribs, as many do (unless your lastname rhymes with Boothe)... anyhow, I used my band saw and belt/disc sanderpretty heavily. In fact, I still do. I also use the drill press, table saw,miter saw, metal band saw, table router, etc all the time... but I didn't startout with them. I'll agree with John... the miter saw is a dandy. You'll loveit when you get to the fuse and where other larger pieces need to be cut.I didn't find it to be the best tool for wing rib parts. A suggestion if I may... get what you need to get going on your project. I wouldobviously recommend starting with wing ribs since they are relatively cheap,smaller in size than most assemblies and can really test your desire to build.I found them to be a lot of fun, but was really glad to get them done and moveon to other assemblies. Anyhow, as you pound out the ribs, you can studythe drawings and consider what you will need next (tool wise). Keep a lookouton Craigslist for tools... I've found some really good buys on there.Most importantly, have fun... it isn't a race. We look forward to reading aboutyour progress.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Welcome John!As for tooling, I think we are probably each a little different in our approach,so our preference in tools differs a bit. For example, I LOVE my band saw.I started my project by constructing my wing ribs, as many do (unless your lastname rhymes with Boothe)... anyhow, I used my band saw and belt/disc sanderpretty heavily. In fact, I still do. I also use the drill press, table saw,miter saw, metal band saw, table router, etc all the time... but I didn't startout with them. I'll agree with John... the miter saw is a dandy. You'll loveit when you get to the fuse and where other larger pieces need to be cut.I didn't find it to be the best tool for wing rib parts. A suggestion if I may... get what you need to get going on your project. I wouldobviously recommend starting with wing ribs since they are relatively cheap,smaller in size than most assemblies and can really test your desire to build.I found them to be a lot of fun, but was really glad to get them done and moveon to other assemblies. Anyhow, as you pound out the ribs, you can studythe drawings and consider what you will need next (tool wise). Keep a lookouton Craigslist for tools... I've found some really good buys on there.Most importantly, have fun... it isn't a race. We look forward to reading aboutyour progress.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: Pocono John
John,It sounds to me that your thoughtful planning has you on your way to a good start. If you've managed to listen to all the misfits on this list "for a long time", then I wouldn't worry about getting in "over" your head....You've passed the test!!! The drawings seem daunting at first, but all the info you need is there. Just take on one small project at a time, and keep plodding through until one day you will be surprised that there is nothing more to do except to fly it. This list is a wealth of information, so feel free to tap into it. And if we see that you're doing something generally seen as unairworthy, you will be summarily flamed (in a nice way). One question you had was "then what will I use the workbench for? Mine was 32 ft. long and always filled with something or another. One of the undeniable truths of life is, that one can never have enough workbench space. You will not need a wood-cutting band saw, but having a planer is great for shaping all forms of scrap into usable pieces.Welcome to the wonderful world of Pietenpols.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
John,It sounds to me that your thoughtful planning has you on your way to a good start. If you've managed to listen to all the misfits on this list "for a long time", then I wouldn't worry about getting in "over" your head....You've passed the test!!! The drawings seem daunting at first, but all the info you need is there. Just take on one small project at a time, and keep plodding through until one day you will be surprised that there is nothing more to do except to fly it. This list is a wealth of information, so feel free to tap into it. And if we see that you're doing something generally seen as unairworthy, you will be summarily flamed (in a nice way). One question you had was "then what will I use the workbench for? Mine was 32 ft. long and always filled with something or another. One of the undeniable truths of life is, that one can never have enough workbench space. You will not need a wood-cutting band saw, but having a planer is great for shaping all forms of scrap into usable pieces.Welcome to the wonderful world of Pietenpols.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "dgaldrich"
A few weeks ago we had some discussion about wooden lift struts. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... lightSince that time I have been working on assembling lift struts that would matchthe cabane struts Jim Markle helped me assemble in his vacuum bagging system.I know that we all like photos, so I'll try to keep the words short and justoffer a handful of photos. Enjoy!Planed laminates of spruce and cherry for the cabanes. Even the master was blown away at my choice of materials.After running the edges through the jointer. Shaped using the table saw and table router... softened the sharp breaks with alittle sanding effort.System 3 gloss varnish applied.The cabanes were laminated with full width planks of cherry. I thought this approachmight be a bit too heavy for the lift struts, so I chose to rabbet thespruce planks on my table router and cut cherry inserts, which will allow me toachieve the same look with less weight. Rabbeting the spruce planks. All prepped for further assembly.All the parts fabricated. The original plan called for 9 pieces for each strut...in the end, there would be 13. Some of those are a trade secret... if I toldya, I'd have to... well, you know.My vacuum bagging setup. It works great. The first two planks in the bag with the cherry inserts being glued. A better look at the best (easiest, cleanest, most even) clamp available. I ampulling 20"Hg, which is the equivalent of 10psi... those planks are 96" longby ~2" wide... 2 x 96 = 192... multiply by 10psi and that equates to 1920 poundsof pressure applied to that plank in an absolutely even manner. I didn't evenget my hands dirty... try that with clamps. All glued up. After this photo was taken, I ran these through the planer to makethem all uniform. After the outer caps were all glued up with their inserts in place, I figured Ibetter take a very controlled approach to the rest of the assembly. Trying tostack two caps with three pieces in between would be too easy to screw up. So I chose to install the spruce leading edge strips in order to use this partas a guide when installing the remaining parts. This approach worked well. In all, there were 12 vacuum bagging operations... all of which required curingtime... this is why these took a couple of weeks. Plywood cores being installed. My friend Brian Fisher helping me spread epoxy... a lot of epoxy.All glued up, but looking rough. After running them through the planer.After squaring up the trailing edge, which needs to be uniform in order to achievea matched cut on both sides.All ready to go to the table saw... the most difficult and critical operation.As the penciled note reads, I plan to cut in 3/8" @ 15*. [img]http://www.patriotdigital.net/images/St ... -00273.jpg[/img]A big sigh of relief... the table saw operations are done and they look good. A few passes through the table router using a 1/2" round bit and the leading edgeswere done.The full set shown with their predecessor, a cabane strut. I'll still need todo a bit of sanding to smooth out the sharp breaks left by the power tools, butotherwise they are 90% done. The most difficult tasks are completed... a littlesanding and varnish and they will be done. Thanks for looking!--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
A few weeks ago we had some discussion about wooden lift struts. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... lightSince that time I have been working on assembling lift struts that would matchthe cabane struts Jim Markle helped me assemble in his vacuum bagging system.I know that we all like photos, so I'll try to keep the words short and justoffer a handful of photos. Enjoy!Planed laminates of spruce and cherry for the cabanes. Even the master was blown away at my choice of materials.After running the edges through the jointer. Shaped using the table saw and table router... softened the sharp breaks with alittle sanding effort.System 3 gloss varnish applied.The cabanes were laminated with full width planks of cherry. I thought this approachmight be a bit too heavy for the lift struts, so I chose to rabbet thespruce planks on my table router and cut cherry inserts, which will allow me toachieve the same look with less weight. Rabbeting the spruce planks. All prepped for further assembly.All the parts fabricated. The original plan called for 9 pieces for each strut...in the end, there would be 13. Some of those are a trade secret... if I toldya, I'd have to... well, you know.My vacuum bagging setup. It works great. The first two planks in the bag with the cherry inserts being glued. A better look at the best (easiest, cleanest, most even) clamp available. I ampulling 20"Hg, which is the equivalent of 10psi... those planks are 96" longby ~2" wide... 2 x 96 = 192... multiply by 10psi and that equates to 1920 poundsof pressure applied to that plank in an absolutely even manner. I didn't evenget my hands dirty... try that with clamps. All glued up. After this photo was taken, I ran these through the planer to makethem all uniform. After the outer caps were all glued up with their inserts in place, I figured Ibetter take a very controlled approach to the rest of the assembly. Trying tostack two caps with three pieces in between would be too easy to screw up. So I chose to install the spruce leading edge strips in order to use this partas a guide when installing the remaining parts. This approach worked well. In all, there were 12 vacuum bagging operations... all of which required curingtime... this is why these took a couple of weeks. Plywood cores being installed. My friend Brian Fisher helping me spread epoxy... a lot of epoxy.All glued up, but looking rough. After running them through the planer.After squaring up the trailing edge, which needs to be uniform in order to achievea matched cut on both sides.All ready to go to the table saw... the most difficult and critical operation.As the penciled note reads, I plan to cut in 3/8" @ 15*. [img]http://www.patriotdigital.net/images/St ... -00273.jpg[/img]A big sigh of relief... the table saw operations are done and they look good. A few passes through the table router using a 1/2" round bit and the leading edgeswere done.The full set shown with their predecessor, a cabane strut. I'll still need todo a bit of sanding to smooth out the sharp breaks left by the power tools, butotherwise they are 90% done. The most difficult tasks are completed... a littlesanding and varnish and they will be done. Thanks for looking!--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "jarheadpilot82"
Welcome JohnOne of the truly worthwhile things about this list is the broad spectrum of experienceand the availability of good ideas and alternate ways of doing things.A couple of things to consider in addition to the previous postings.1. Consider alternate sources of wood. There are some lumber yards (few and farbetween but some do exist) that have sitka spruce in sizes that work. Sinceyou have 43-13, you can grade it yourself. 43-13 also provides alternate speciesof wood that some people on this very board have used with success. I gotenough sitka to build, literally, 2 Pietenpols, from a boatyard that buildsand restores wooden boats. Alternate sources of wood will require a decent tablesaw to mill to the required sizes. And yes, I made a LOT of sawdust, severalHefty bags worth.2. I consider a miter saw a necessity to build ribs. I made a master set of sticksand used the saw to duplicate 40 more using a stop block. That way, fittinga jig full of sticks took almost no time. One jig can produce two ribs aday if all the pieces are premade. 3. Many, maybe most, metal pieces are easily done on a band saw and drill press.4. Getting your wife involved is a GOOD thing. If she likes knitting and thelike, get her to learn the infamous modified seine knot and help with the fabric.And make absolutely sure you use a Corvair, house paint, and the Riblett airfoil.... :-)Dave AldrichRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Welcome JohnOne of the truly worthwhile things about this list is the broad spectrum of experienceand the availability of good ideas and alternate ways of doing things.A couple of things to consider in addition to the previous postings.1. Consider alternate sources of wood. There are some lumber yards (few and farbetween but some do exist) that have sitka spruce in sizes that work. Sinceyou have 43-13, you can grade it yourself. 43-13 also provides alternate speciesof wood that some people on this very board have used with success. I gotenough sitka to build, literally, 2 Pietenpols, from a boatyard that buildsand restores wooden boats. Alternate sources of wood will require a decent tablesaw to mill to the required sizes. And yes, I made a LOT of sawdust, severalHefty bags worth.2. I consider a miter saw a necessity to build ribs. I made a master set of sticksand used the saw to duplicate 40 more using a stop block. That way, fittinga jig full of sticks took almost no time. One jig can produce two ribs aday if all the pieces are premade. 3. Many, maybe most, metal pieces are easily done on a band saw and drill press.4. Getting your wife involved is a GOOD thing. If she likes knitting and thelike, get her to learn the infamous modified seine knot and help with the fabric.And make absolutely sure you use a Corvair, house paint, and the Riblett airfoil.... :-)Dave AldrichRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
All I can say is - wow! Those struts are beautiful and you have taken great painsto document the process. Thanks!One question- what is the weight of each strut at this point? Just curious.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
All I can say is - wow! Those struts are beautiful and you have taken great painsto document the process. Thanks!One question- what is the weight of each strut at this point? Just curious.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "Jack"
Wow.Really well documented process.Superb craftsmanship, Mark.Really nice.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Wow.Really well documented process.Superb craftsmanship, Mark.Really nice.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
John, welcome to the list! I'm not going to repeat all the very goodprevious comments. I'm lucky to have more tools than I need including amill, lathe, mig, tig and oxy welders. For building the Piet there arethree I would not give up, a 12" disk sander, metal and wood band saws. Iuse them more than any others.Enjoy the build!JackDSMwww.textors.com -----Original Message-----
John, welcome to the list! I'm not going to repeat all the very goodprevious comments. I'm lucky to have more tools than I need including amill, lathe, mig, tig and oxy welders. For building the Piet there arethree I would not give up, a 12" disk sander, metal and wood band saws. Iuse them more than any others.Enjoy the build!JackDSMwww.textors.com -----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "Dick N"
il>One quick thought on shipping:- I'm certain that I've made UPS, FedEx and USPS profitable during lean years by ordering materials as needed vs. making fewer large orders.- I haven't done the math, but I know shipping costs are a significant part of the total cost of the airplane.- Of course, storing the stuff long term also has costs.Having said all that, I'm buying materials for the next project exactly the way I did for the Piet: as needed, in small quantities, with lots of shipping costs.--------Kevin "Axel" PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 2#353232le, List Admin.________________________________________________________________________________
il>One quick thought on shipping:- I'm certain that I've made UPS, FedEx and USPS profitable during lean years by ordering materials as needed vs. making fewer large orders.- I haven't done the math, but I know shipping costs are a significant part of the total cost of the airplane.- Of course, storing the stuff long term also has costs.Having said all that, I'm buying materials for the next project exactly the way I did for the Piet: as needed, in small quantities, with lots of shipping costs.--------Kevin "Axel" PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 2#353232le, List Admin.________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Anyone know who this is?
Original Posted By: "jarheadpilot82"
American has silver bars and blue uniforms. The shoulder bars would be black andsilver though. Looks like a super 80 also.ToolsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Anyone know who this is?
American has silver bars and blue uniforms. The shoulder bars would be black andsilver though. Looks like a super 80 also.ToolsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Anyone know who this is?
Original Posted By: airlion
Tools,I see those guys every week in London. They have dark blue epaulettes with silverbars. And, yes, that is some MD-80 variant. Most likely a Super 80, but I donot know the guy.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 06:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
Tools,I see those guys every week in London. They have dark blue epaulettes with silverbars. And, yes, that is some MD-80 variant. Most likely a Super 80, but I donot know the guy.--------Semper Fi,Terry HandRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 06:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Terry... I'm not sure on the weight, but I will find out. When they first cameout of the bag all glued up I thought they felt a little heavy, but once theexcess glue and blocked wood were trimmed they were noticeably lighter. I'lltry to put them on the scales this week. In case I forget to mention it lateron... these are 96" long, which is ~10" longer than I should need to fly. Iwon't trim them until we are close to rigging them so I can leave some room forpossible damage or miscalculation. I suppose we could divide the total weightby 8 and get a weight per foot. I'd be interested to know how they compareto streamline tubing if anyone has some that can be weighed... or perhaps thatdata is published somewhere. Thanks for the compliments fellas!--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Terry... I'm not sure on the weight, but I will find out. When they first cameout of the bag all glued up I thought they felt a little heavy, but once theexcess glue and blocked wood were trimmed they were noticeably lighter. I'lltry to put them on the scales this week. In case I forget to mention it lateron... these are 96" long, which is ~10" longer than I should need to fly. Iwon't trim them until we are close to rigging them so I can leave some room forpossible damage or miscalculation. I suppose we could divide the total weightby 8 and get a weight per foot. I'd be interested to know how they compareto streamline tubing if anyone has some that can be weighed... or perhaps thatdata is published somewhere. Thanks for the compliments fellas!--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "TOM STINEMETZE"
Welcome to the group, John.When it comes to tools, everybody has their preferred methods.Ideally, we would all have very spacious, fully equipped workshops (and an infiniteamount of free time and disposable income). However, in the real world, wemake do with what we have (well I do, anyway). It sounds as though you are facedwith starting from scratch, as far as equipping your workshop. While allof the tools you have listed can be used to good advantage in building a Piet,it isn't really necessary to have all of them. Many tasks can be accomplishedby several means, depending on the ingenuity of the builder. In my case, I builtup my woodworking tool collection over many years, prior to starting my Pietso I didn't have to decide what tools to buy before starting (but still useany excuse available to acquire a new toy... I mean tool). I chose to buy mySitka in rough-sawn planks, and milled it all myself, so a table saw was a necessity.Aircraft Spruce and Wick's do not sell rough-sawn lumber, so if you wantto go that route, you'll have to find another source for your wood, and beprepared to do your own grading. Buying your wood pre-milled would make the tablesaw less critical to have. I do have a thickness planer, so I used it, butit isn't totally necessary. I also have a (electric) miter saw, and so far haveused it to cut ZERO parts for my Piet. However, I have used my disc sanderfor almost every piece. Rough cut the pieces to length, and fine tune the miteredends on the disc sander - works like a charm.There are a lot of metal parts in this "all-wood" airplane, and you'll likely needthat bandsaw to cut out the metal parts (unless you have access to a metalshop), but most of the metal parts will need to be made to fit the wooden structuresthat you actually made, so they won't be required until a little laterin the project. My suggestion would be to acquire the tools as you need them,rather than buying a whole shop full of tools in one shot. That way you can spenda little time with each new tool, getting to know how each one works, beforecutting into your airplane parts.As far as the workbench goes, I'm not sure what you're talking about - you planto use a 4' x 8' floor as your workbench, with a 2 foot deep cutout on one side,and mount your tools on the workbench? You will eventually need a workbenchabout 15 feet long to build your fuselage on. Like Jack suggested, you shouldprobably build 2 benches 8 feet long, and about 30 inches wide (you will needthe full 24 inches for the fuselage, and you'll want a bit of extra room - butnot too much - 4 feet is too wide to reach across). Here's a link to some plansfor simple but effective workbenches (but as I said, I'd suggest making themabout 6" wider - even though that means spending a few extra bucks for theextra plywood)http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/work ... efig.htmAs for your workspace, a 2 car garage should work just fine for most of the build.I only have a 1 1/2, and although it's squishy at times, it works. I have,however heard that people sometimes use garages to store cars - weird idea. Ilive further North than you, and I can work almost year round, by making useof a small space heater in the winter - it all depends on your desire to get thingsbuilt. In my case, I use whatever time is available to me, so if that happensin the winter months, then that's when I build (the T-88 just takes longerto cure in colder temps).Oh, one more thing... unlike a bathroom reno, there shouldn't be any sewer connectionson the Piet (assuming you build to the plans).Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 09:44:31 -0500
Welcome to the group, John.When it comes to tools, everybody has their preferred methods.Ideally, we would all have very spacious, fully equipped workshops (and an infiniteamount of free time and disposable income). However, in the real world, wemake do with what we have (well I do, anyway). It sounds as though you are facedwith starting from scratch, as far as equipping your workshop. While allof the tools you have listed can be used to good advantage in building a Piet,it isn't really necessary to have all of them. Many tasks can be accomplishedby several means, depending on the ingenuity of the builder. In my case, I builtup my woodworking tool collection over many years, prior to starting my Pietso I didn't have to decide what tools to buy before starting (but still useany excuse available to acquire a new toy... I mean tool). I chose to buy mySitka in rough-sawn planks, and milled it all myself, so a table saw was a necessity.Aircraft Spruce and Wick's do not sell rough-sawn lumber, so if you wantto go that route, you'll have to find another source for your wood, and beprepared to do your own grading. Buying your wood pre-milled would make the tablesaw less critical to have. I do have a thickness planer, so I used it, butit isn't totally necessary. I also have a (electric) miter saw, and so far haveused it to cut ZERO parts for my Piet. However, I have used my disc sanderfor almost every piece. Rough cut the pieces to length, and fine tune the miteredends on the disc sander - works like a charm.There are a lot of metal parts in this "all-wood" airplane, and you'll likely needthat bandsaw to cut out the metal parts (unless you have access to a metalshop), but most of the metal parts will need to be made to fit the wooden structuresthat you actually made, so they won't be required until a little laterin the project. My suggestion would be to acquire the tools as you need them,rather than buying a whole shop full of tools in one shot. That way you can spenda little time with each new tool, getting to know how each one works, beforecutting into your airplane parts.As far as the workbench goes, I'm not sure what you're talking about - you planto use a 4' x 8' floor as your workbench, with a 2 foot deep cutout on one side,and mount your tools on the workbench? You will eventually need a workbenchabout 15 feet long to build your fuselage on. Like Jack suggested, you shouldprobably build 2 benches 8 feet long, and about 30 inches wide (you will needthe full 24 inches for the fuselage, and you'll want a bit of extra room - butnot too much - 4 feet is too wide to reach across). Here's a link to some plansfor simple but effective workbenches (but as I said, I'd suggest making themabout 6" wider - even though that means spending a few extra bucks for theextra plywood)http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/work ... efig.htmAs for your workspace, a 2 car garage should work just fine for most of the build.I only have a 1 1/2, and although it's squishy at times, it works. I have,however heard that people sometimes use garages to store cars - weird idea. Ilive further North than you, and I can work almost year round, by making useof a small space heater in the winter - it all depends on your desire to get thingsbuilt. In my case, I use whatever time is available to me, so if that happensin the winter months, then that's when I build (the T-88 just takes longerto cure in colder temps).Oh, one more thing... unlike a bathroom reno, there shouldn't be any sewer connectionson the Piet (assuming you build to the plans).Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 09:44:31 -0500
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "kevinpurtee"
Mark,FWIW, here are the weights for some aluminum struts for sale on the web. I willcurious to see how yours come out in weight comparison. But the aluminum doesnot look near as nice as yours!--------Semper Fi,Terry HandRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/stru ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Mark,FWIW, here are the weights for some aluminum struts for sale on the web. I willcurious to see how yours come out in weight comparison. But the aluminum doesnot look near as nice as yours!--------Semper Fi,Terry HandRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/stru ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: shad bell
One quick thought on shipping: I'm certain that I've made UPS, FedEx and USPSprofitable during lean years by ordering materials as needed vs. making fewerlarge orders. I haven't done the math, but I know shipping costs are a significantpart of the total cost of the airplane. Of course, storing the stuff long term also has costs.Having said all that, I'm buying materials for the next project exactly the wayI did for the Piet: as needed, in small quantities, with lots of shipping costs.--------Kevin "Axel" PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:16:03 -0700 (PDT)
One quick thought on shipping: I'm certain that I've made UPS, FedEx and USPSprofitable during lean years by ordering materials as needed vs. making fewerlarge orders. I haven't done the math, but I know shipping costs are a significantpart of the total cost of the airplane. Of course, storing the stuff long term also has costs.Having said all that, I'm buying materials for the next project exactly the wayI did for the Piet: as needed, in small quantities, with lots of shipping costs.--------Kevin "Axel" PurteeNX899KPAustin/Georgetown, TXRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:16:03 -0700 (PDT)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "jarheadpilot82"
TerryWhere on the web did you find those aluminum struts.ThanksDick N.----- Original Message -----
TerryWhere on the web did you find those aluminum struts.ThanksDick N.----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
As Jack and Bill have said... a couple of workbenches that can be fastened togetherwould be a great idea. This first thing I built for this project were two4' x 8' workbenches and the height was determined by MY height, not the standardtable or workbench height. That is something else you should consider...I don't know if you are shorter or taller than average, but make the benchedcomfortable to YOU and you won't fatigue as easily during those long standingsessions. I used 2x4s, 4x4s, cheap ply for the shelves and cabinet grade birch for the tops.I also cut, drilled and tapped some 1" aluminum stock and installed theminto the bottom of the legs and then threaded 3/8"-16 bolts with big washers forleveling feet. Leveling feet are great any time, but expecially when you getaround to pairing them up for the fuse assembly. 4' x 16'... straight and level. Can you believe that tiny stack of wood will buildthe fuse?Once everything was leveled, I used a few pieces of cheap plywood as gussets andscrewed the table legs together in the middle. You can kind of make out thebig rectangular gusset if you look closely at the two center legs.To second (or third) the train of thought on tooling... if you buy things up frontthat you THINK you'll need, you will not only tie up resources (might notbe a problem for you), but you may look back and say... I wish I would have gotthe model with the [fill in the blank], or you may wish a certain tool wasn'tin your way at all while it collects dust. Just something to consider. My shop/hangar started out with only a few tools I inherited from my Grandpa andnow, only two-and a half years later it is fairly well equipped. At the timethis photo was taken, I had my plans and was awaiting capstrip for ribs. Youdon't need much to get started. Your shop will stay well equipped if you keep an eye out for this mean hombre.He is known as the Markler, and he always leaves you feeling a wee bit violated(is that the right word) after a visit. Just look at him... that mean scowlas he says, "I'm taking this." Just kidding... Jim is a swell guy and we love him around here. He has been aBIG help on my project. Enough tom-foolery... back to work.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:38:27 -0700 (PDT)
As Jack and Bill have said... a couple of workbenches that can be fastened togetherwould be a great idea. This first thing I built for this project were two4' x 8' workbenches and the height was determined by MY height, not the standardtable or workbench height. That is something else you should consider...I don't know if you are shorter or taller than average, but make the benchedcomfortable to YOU and you won't fatigue as easily during those long standingsessions. I used 2x4s, 4x4s, cheap ply for the shelves and cabinet grade birch for the tops.I also cut, drilled and tapped some 1" aluminum stock and installed theminto the bottom of the legs and then threaded 3/8"-16 bolts with big washers forleveling feet. Leveling feet are great any time, but expecially when you getaround to pairing them up for the fuse assembly. 4' x 16'... straight and level. Can you believe that tiny stack of wood will buildthe fuse?Once everything was leveled, I used a few pieces of cheap plywood as gussets andscrewed the table legs together in the middle. You can kind of make out thebig rectangular gusset if you look closely at the two center legs.To second (or third) the train of thought on tooling... if you buy things up frontthat you THINK you'll need, you will not only tie up resources (might notbe a problem for you), but you may look back and say... I wish I would have gotthe model with the [fill in the blank], or you may wish a certain tool wasn'tin your way at all while it collects dust. Just something to consider. My shop/hangar started out with only a few tools I inherited from my Grandpa andnow, only two-and a half years later it is fairly well equipped. At the timethis photo was taken, I had my plans and was awaiting capstrip for ribs. Youdon't need much to get started. Your shop will stay well equipped if you keep an eye out for this mean hombre.He is known as the Markler, and he always leaves you feeling a wee bit violated(is that the right word) after a visit. Just look at him... that mean scowlas he says, "I'm taking this." Just kidding... Jim is a swell guy and we love him around here. He has been aBIG help on my project. Enough tom-foolery... back to work.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:38:27 -0700 (PDT)
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
One of the advantages of making your workbench table top 30" wide is that itleaves you a piece of plywood about 18" wide which can be added under theworkbench to make a nice shelf for storing wood or anything else. Here is apicture of my workbench with the fuselage assembled on top of it:And here you can see the shelf under the workbench:Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
One of the advantages of making your workbench table top 30" wide is that itleaves you a piece of plywood about 18" wide which can be added under theworkbench to make a nice shelf for storing wood or anything else. Here is apicture of my workbench with the fuselage assembled on top of it:And here you can see the shelf under the workbench:Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "K5YAC"
One thing to keep in mind, regarding the weights of various struts, is that theonly truly relevant weight will be the OVERALL weight of the completed strut(including end fittings). Different strut materials will require different fittingsat each end - some heavier than others. For instance, steel struts can havethe end fittings welded in place, whereas aluminum or wooden struts will requirebolted connections (which are always heavier than welds). Therefore thereal comparison should be between the completed strut assemblies.Just sayin'.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
One thing to keep in mind, regarding the weights of various struts, is that theonly truly relevant weight will be the OVERALL weight of the completed strut(including end fittings). Different strut materials will require different fittingsat each end - some heavier than others. For instance, steel struts can havethe end fittings welded in place, whereas aluminum or wooden struts will requirebolted connections (which are always heavier than welds). Therefore thereal comparison should be between the completed strut assemblies.Just sayin'.Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "K5YAC"
Bill Church wrote:> the real comparison should be between the completed strut assemblies.True.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Bill Church wrote:> the real comparison should be between the completed strut assemblies.True.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
It has come to my attention (again) that embedded images do not play well for e-mailreaders. I am a web reader and I really don't like the way that the attachmentfeature screws up the web formatting, so I choose to embed images whenI can. Sorry if this messes things up for those of you that receive e-mailsor the daily digest. If you would like to see the photos, go to this link... http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
It has come to my attention (again) that embedded images do not play well for e-mailreaders. I am a web reader and I really don't like the way that the attachmentfeature screws up the web formatting, so I choose to embed images whenI can. Sorry if this messes things up for those of you that receive e-mailsor the daily digest. If you would like to see the photos, go to this link... http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "skellytown flyer"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)Mark,Some really great work on those struts except you got the light wood on the wrong side.nice job MarkJohn________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)Mark,Some really great work on those struts except you got the light wood on the wrong side.nice job MarkJohn________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: kmordecai001(at)comcast.net
Those arr beautiful, and I know it will work. but it would be interesting to makea short test section with the end fittings you are going to use and pull themon some type test rig and see what the ultimate yield is. I wish I had donesomething like that on my aluminum ones just for fun. might be a good winterproject but then I don't really have a way to pull test them either.Raymond. donot archiveRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 22:14:39 +0000 (UTC)
Those arr beautiful, and I know it will work. but it would be interesting to makea short test section with the end fittings you are going to use and pull themon some type test rig and see what the ultimate yield is. I wish I had donesomething like that on my aluminum ones just for fun. might be a good winterproject but then I don't really have a way to pull test them either.Raymond. donot archiveRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 22:14:39 +0000 (UTC)
Pietenpol-List: Re: Mystery Engine - McCulloch?
Original Posted By: "MyrickPiet"
not to scientific but i took a section of the small aluminum strut and drilleda 5/16 hole 1/2 "from each end, added a bolt ...loose with no filler or reinforcementand attached it to a 3 ton hoist and a 4800lb tug... only a cable oneach end around the bolts..just as the tug broke ground the aluminum gave awayat a bolt hole..made me feel ok... knowing i actually had ends to spread the load on the real thing..those wood struts are beautiful... jeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Mystery Engine - McCulloch?
not to scientific but i took a section of the small aluminum strut and drilleda 5/16 hole 1/2 "from each end, added a bolt ...loose with no filler or reinforcementand attached it to a 3 ton hoist and a 4800lb tug... only a cable oneach end around the bolts..just as the tug broke ground the aluminum gave awayat a bolt hole..made me feel ok... knowing i actually had ends to spread the load on the real thing..those wood struts are beautiful... jeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Mystery Engine - McCulloch?
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "Pocono John"
The Piet guys come thru! Thank you Dave Mordecai in FL. If I could award a prizeyou would probably win it. Sounds very much like the right one. I havepassed on the information to the Oklahoma Science Museum where the engine ison display with many question marks. (Does anyone know anything about the attached engine? Watercooled, 5 cyl radial,dual plugs,Bosch injected, Garrett turbocharged, prop reduction belts. I suspect it isa one-of but that's a LOT of work and expense. Any gearheads out there have someideas?> Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
The Piet guys come thru! Thank you Dave Mordecai in FL. If I could award a prizeyou would probably win it. Sounds very much like the right one. I havepassed on the information to the Oklahoma Science Museum where the engine ison display with many question marks. (Does anyone know anything about the attached engine? Watercooled, 5 cyl radial,dual plugs,Bosch injected, Garrett turbocharged, prop reduction belts. I suspect it isa one-of but that's a LOT of work and expense. Any gearheads out there have someideas?> Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "jacktextor"
Thank you everyone for the warm welcome and your ideas. I take constructive criticismwell, so feel free to speak your mind.As far as tools, I wanted to research and see what is out there and learn the language.I'll definitely hold off buying until I need it, but at least the researchis done and I have a model number in mind. The funny thing is now when I'mout with my wife, I park so we have to go through the tool department.My garage has 22' X 19' of working space I can use. It has two doors, 7' high.Here are my responses to some of your questions/comments:JACKI do have the plan's (plus supplements, the booklet...everything I could order).I want the long fuselage. Are the plans I have for long? How can I tell?I prefer a one piece wing. If I can put the wing together in warm weather, thenbring it and the fuselage to a final assembly location, that should work. Arethere things I should consider besides the space saving convenience of threewing sections?I prefer the straight axle wooden gear (looks nice), but wondering if it's roughon the plane. Split axle appears to provide more cushion. Not sure what I'lldo.GARYYou're sure good at utilizing your garage space. I'm impressed!MARKThanks. I plan to cut in the garage and since we're getting into cold weather,I'll assemble each rib in the house and since there's no rush, I'll use one ofthe techniques from websites I've seen to clamp gussets. I probably am thinkingtoo much, but I want to have the layout established. Thanks for the Craigslist idea. Thanks for the photos of your work bench.. DAVEFlew at Bar Harbor? CLE Chief?KENWe have so many digital cameras here, and all junk. I sure miss the days of 35mm.I'm going to try to find something that takes good photos. I tried a cameratonight; took some test photos of what's left of my old hobby room.BILLYes, I'm starting from scratch with tools. I'm amazed at how many things I've builtwith just some basics: Circular and jig saw and my trusty variable speed/reversibledrill. You wrote "As far as the workbench goes, I'm not sure what you'retalking about - you plan to use a 4' x 8' floor as your workbench, witha 2 foot deep cutout on one side, and mount your tools on the workbench?"...whatI meant was I thought that would serve as an area to place tools or mount avise (odds and ends?). For ribs and fuselage, I'll build a table specificallyfor that such as the one EAA 100 designed. I may still build the Tony Bingelis30" X 30" tool table. I guess I'll see what happens.TOMThanks for the hobby miter box suggestion.I'm attaching a couple of photos to try this out and see if the camera is a pieceof junk like my others. This is what remains of my hobby room in which I builtmodel rockets. I can either chuck it, or use it as an area to put tools ordo miscellaneous work; still thinking.YIKES! I'm looking at the preview and looks like I'm going to have to buy anothercamera. Oh well!OK, not going to think too much. I'll get some milled wood, some from Wicks andSpruce and compare them. Meanwhile, I'll build the rib jig (as soon as I getthe garage ready).Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ipho ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Thank you everyone for the warm welcome and your ideas. I take constructive criticismwell, so feel free to speak your mind.As far as tools, I wanted to research and see what is out there and learn the language.I'll definitely hold off buying until I need it, but at least the researchis done and I have a model number in mind. The funny thing is now when I'mout with my wife, I park so we have to go through the tool department.My garage has 22' X 19' of working space I can use. It has two doors, 7' high.Here are my responses to some of your questions/comments:JACKI do have the plan's (plus supplements, the booklet...everything I could order).I want the long fuselage. Are the plans I have for long? How can I tell?I prefer a one piece wing. If I can put the wing together in warm weather, thenbring it and the fuselage to a final assembly location, that should work. Arethere things I should consider besides the space saving convenience of threewing sections?I prefer the straight axle wooden gear (looks nice), but wondering if it's roughon the plane. Split axle appears to provide more cushion. Not sure what I'lldo.GARYYou're sure good at utilizing your garage space. I'm impressed!MARKThanks. I plan to cut in the garage and since we're getting into cold weather,I'll assemble each rib in the house and since there's no rush, I'll use one ofthe techniques from websites I've seen to clamp gussets. I probably am thinkingtoo much, but I want to have the layout established. Thanks for the Craigslist idea. Thanks for the photos of your work bench.. DAVEFlew at Bar Harbor? CLE Chief?KENWe have so many digital cameras here, and all junk. I sure miss the days of 35mm.I'm going to try to find something that takes good photos. I tried a cameratonight; took some test photos of what's left of my old hobby room.BILLYes, I'm starting from scratch with tools. I'm amazed at how many things I've builtwith just some basics: Circular and jig saw and my trusty variable speed/reversibledrill. You wrote "As far as the workbench goes, I'm not sure what you'retalking about - you plan to use a 4' x 8' floor as your workbench, witha 2 foot deep cutout on one side, and mount your tools on the workbench?"...whatI meant was I thought that would serve as an area to place tools or mount avise (odds and ends?). For ribs and fuselage, I'll build a table specificallyfor that such as the one EAA 100 designed. I may still build the Tony Bingelis30" X 30" tool table. I guess I'll see what happens.TOMThanks for the hobby miter box suggestion.I'm attaching a couple of photos to try this out and see if the camera is a pieceof junk like my others. This is what remains of my hobby room in which I builtmodel rockets. I can either chuck it, or use it as an area to put tools ordo miscellaneous work; still thinking.YIKES! I'm looking at the preview and looks like I'm going to have to buy anothercamera. Oh well!OK, not going to think too much. I'll get some milled wood, some from Wicks andSpruce and compare them. Meanwhile, I'll build the rib jig (as soon as I getthe garage ready).Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ipho ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wooden Lift Struts (Update)
Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Mark, very nice work! Thanks for sharing the operation.JackDSM--------Jack TextorDes Moines, IAwww.textors.comRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Mark, very nice work! Thanks for sharing the operation.JackDSM--------Jack TextorDes Moines, IAwww.textors.comRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Hi John,The long fuselage plans are in the supplemental plans package from thePietenpol family, so you should have it, along with the "short" fuselage inthe Improved (1933) Air Camper plans. The shortest fuselage is in the 1932Flying and Glider Manual plans.The one-piece wing is slightly lighter, but is more difficult to handle,even if you have the room for it in your shop, which it sounds like you donot. The one-piece wing is 29' long and requires a space of at least 12' x32' to be able to safely turn it over and move around it. Even with enoughspace, it is troublesome to move it and handle it (you'll be surprised howoften it must be flipped over during the covering and painting process).The three piece wing also offers more flexibility in use of thecentersection for baggage storage or fuel.The straight axle wooden gear is considerably stronger and more rugged thanthe split axle gear, with one important exception: The axle itself is underquite a bit of stress and needs to be made of fairly heavy wall tubing,which along with the weight of the wire wheels, makes this gear considerablyheavier than the split axle design. To minimize the stress on the axle,keep the wheels as close to the undercarriage as possible. The use ofbrakes adds complexity to this undercarriage design and also tends toincrease stress in the axle due to extending the wheels further from thebungees which are resisting the wheel loads. As for being rough on theplane, either gear as designed provide plenty of shock absorption. If Iwere to build mine over, I would use the split axle gear with wire wheels,but would use die springs instead of bungees. The bungees are just a painin the butt to change, and need to be replaced about every 2 - 3 years.One other suggestion - when you send your first order to Aircraft Spruce,buy their "Bargain Bag of Spruce" for $37.50 (Yikes - when I was buildingmine, it was $15). There are a lot of pieces of my airplane that were madefrom pieces of spruce I got from their bargain bag. You'll be surprised howmuch of it you will use.The best suggestion I have is for you to plan now to go to Brodhead nextJuly to see all the Pietenpols there. No two are alike, and every one oftheir builders had to answer the same questions you are now asking yourself.It's interesting to see how many different solutions to the same problem youcan find.Good luck,Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Hi John,The long fuselage plans are in the supplemental plans package from thePietenpol family, so you should have it, along with the "short" fuselage inthe Improved (1933) Air Camper plans. The shortest fuselage is in the 1932Flying and Glider Manual plans.The one-piece wing is slightly lighter, but is more difficult to handle,even if you have the room for it in your shop, which it sounds like you donot. The one-piece wing is 29' long and requires a space of at least 12' x32' to be able to safely turn it over and move around it. Even with enoughspace, it is troublesome to move it and handle it (you'll be surprised howoften it must be flipped over during the covering and painting process).The three piece wing also offers more flexibility in use of thecentersection for baggage storage or fuel.The straight axle wooden gear is considerably stronger and more rugged thanthe split axle gear, with one important exception: The axle itself is underquite a bit of stress and needs to be made of fairly heavy wall tubing,which along with the weight of the wire wheels, makes this gear considerablyheavier than the split axle design. To minimize the stress on the axle,keep the wheels as close to the undercarriage as possible. The use ofbrakes adds complexity to this undercarriage design and also tends toincrease stress in the axle due to extending the wheels further from thebungees which are resisting the wheel loads. As for being rough on theplane, either gear as designed provide plenty of shock absorption. If Iwere to build mine over, I would use the split axle gear with wire wheels,but would use die springs instead of bungees. The bungees are just a painin the butt to change, and need to be replaced about every 2 - 3 years.One other suggestion - when you send your first order to Aircraft Spruce,buy their "Bargain Bag of Spruce" for $37.50 (Yikes - when I was buildingmine, it was $15). There are a lot of pieces of my airplane that were madefrom pieces of spruce I got from their bargain bag. You'll be surprised howmuch of it you will use.The best suggestion I have is for you to plan now to go to Brodhead nextJuly to see all the Pietenpols there. No two are alike, and every one oftheir builders had to answer the same questions you are now asking yourself.It's interesting to see how many different solutions to the same problem youcan find.Good luck,Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Mystery Engine - McCulloch?
Original Posted By: "Jerry Dotson"
John, You need to start building your rib jig NOW. Order some 1/4 X 1/2 spruce capstrip,some1/16 plywood and T-88 epoxy and get started. The details will fall intoplace. You have a jigsaw so with a little time you can have a Piet rib to showus. What Jack P said. I built the one piece wing and have a 40 X 50 hangar. It is 32.5feet. I just finished covering it. Without a fancy jig to hold it you willneed 4 people total to turn it over safely. Dan Helsper built the fancy jig.I did not. I have turned it 3 times so far. Now the finishing (painting and sandingstarts) and turning starts. I figure to turn it at least 4 more times. Iam fortunate to have family and friends that can come over after work to help.--------Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009now covering21" wheelsLycoming O-235Jay Anderson CloudCars propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/a72_ ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Mystery Engine - McCulloch?
John, You need to start building your rib jig NOW. Order some 1/4 X 1/2 spruce capstrip,some1/16 plywood and T-88 epoxy and get started. The details will fall intoplace. You have a jigsaw so with a little time you can have a Piet rib to showus. What Jack P said. I built the one piece wing and have a 40 X 50 hangar. It is 32.5feet. I just finished covering it. Without a fancy jig to hold it you willneed 4 people total to turn it over safely. Dan Helsper built the fancy jig.I did not. I have turned it 3 times so far. Now the finishing (painting and sandingstarts) and turning starts. I figure to turn it at least 4 more times. Iam fortunate to have family and friends that can come over after work to help.--------Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009now covering21" wheelsLycoming O-235Jay Anderson CloudCars propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/a72_ ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Mystery Engine - McCulloch?
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
Look at this one. http://www.pimaair.org/collection-detai ... -----Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009now covering21" wheelsLycoming O-235Jay Anderson CloudCars propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Look at this one. http://www.pimaair.org/collection-detai ... -----Jerry Dotson59 Daniel Johnson RdBaker, FL 32531Started building NX510JD July, 2009now covering21" wheelsLycoming O-235Jay Anderson CloudCars propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: Pocono John
I prefer a one piece wing. If I can put the wing together in warm weather, then ring it and the fuselage to a final assembly location, that should work. Are here things I should consider besides the space saving convenience of threeing sections?With the one-piece wing, you will almost always need help turning it over during the building process. It is difficult to paint, because there are very few places to grab on while turning. Also, If you ever needed to move the airplane with a truck or trailer it be a very long truck or trailer. But being a purist, I had no choice but to do it.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
I prefer a one piece wing. If I can put the wing together in warm weather, then ring it and the fuselage to a final assembly location, that should work. Are here things I should consider besides the space saving convenience of threeing sections?With the one-piece wing, you will almost always need help turning it over during the building process. It is difficult to paint, because there are very few places to grab on while turning. Also, If you ever needed to move the airplane with a truck or trailer it be a very long truck or trailer. But being a purist, I had no choice but to do it.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "K5YAC"
Thank you Michael. I'll wrap this up with a final comment.I wish I could pick out wood since there's a place two hours away where I couldload up on spruce and plywood. Here is their page:http://www.condonlumber.net/index.htmSince I'm in no rush to fall out of the sky, I guess I'll have order from Wicksand/or AS. If AC 43.13 had photos of what's good and what's not, maybe I'd takea drive and check it out. Oh well!Thanks again for all the advice. I'll start a new post when I have questions (latertoday probably).Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Thank you Michael. I'll wrap this up with a final comment.I wish I could pick out wood since there's a place two hours away where I couldload up on spruce and plywood. Here is their page:http://www.condonlumber.net/index.htmSince I'm in no rush to fall out of the sky, I guess I'll have order from Wicksand/or AS. If AC 43.13 had photos of what's good and what's not, maybe I'd takea drive and check it out. Oh well!Thanks again for all the advice. I'll start a new post when I have questions (latertoday probably).Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "Pocono John"
It does... right there in chapter 1. Pocono John wrote:> If AC 43.13 had photos of what's good and what's not, maybe I'd take a driveand check it out. --------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
It does... right there in chapter 1. Pocono John wrote:> If AC 43.13 had photos of what's good and what's not, maybe I'd take a driveand check it out. --------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "dgaldrich"
Not sure why my book has no photos. I went all through Chapter One and nothing.Page 1-3 has descriptions of what is unacceptable, but that's it. Maybe I cansearch the web for images.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Not sure why my book has no photos. I went all through Chapter One and nothing.Page 1-3 has descriptions of what is unacceptable, but that's it. Maybe I cansearch the web for images.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: "K5YAC"
All it takes to grade wood is a decent ruler and a Mk I Calibrated Eyeball. Wellover 90% of sitka spruce will meet the "slope/straightness" requirements, especiallyin the longer rough lengths. The ruler will tell you if the growth ringspecification is met. The other issue is defects -- pitch pockets, pin knotsand so on are pretty easy to see and can be worked around in the initial milling.What may NOT be obvious is issues caused by mishandling -- crushed piecesand so on. One of the members of this board got a questionable spar fromAS&S that they reluctantly replaced because it had been mishandled. A carefulinspection checking for abrupt changes of direction looking along the long edgeswill give a clue. It might be worth a 2 hour drive to save on the shippingcosts, especially for the spar and longeron sized pieces that have to go bytruck.I'm in Belfast, ME, 30 NM south from BHB, as the crow flies.DaveRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
All it takes to grade wood is a decent ruler and a Mk I Calibrated Eyeball. Wellover 90% of sitka spruce will meet the "slope/straightness" requirements, especiallyin the longer rough lengths. The ruler will tell you if the growth ringspecification is met. The other issue is defects -- pitch pockets, pin knotsand so on are pretty easy to see and can be worked around in the initial milling.What may NOT be obvious is issues caused by mishandling -- crushed piecesand so on. One of the members of this board got a questionable spar fromAS&S that they reluctantly replaced because it had been mishandled. A carefulinspection checking for abrupt changes of direction looking along the long edgeswill give a clue. It might be worth a 2 hour drive to save on the shippingcosts, especially for the spar and longeron sized pieces that have to go bytruck.I'm in Belfast, ME, 30 NM south from BHB, as the crow flies.DaveRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: Ben Charvet
dgaldrich wrote:> One of the members of this board got a questionable spar from AS&S that theyreluctantly replaced because it had been mishandled. > > DaveThey weren't THAT reluctant. Once the right people were made aware of the situationthey were fairly prompt in taking care of things. Just wanted to be clearsince I think it was my spar you were speaking of. It took them about 2 daysto work it up the chain, review the evidence with their people and resolvethe matter. Other than the spar, which could have been a big deal, I've alwaysgot good products and service from AS&S. The moral of the story... regardless of the source, inspect your materials closelyand buy from an outfit that will stand behind their product.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 15:39:25 -0400
dgaldrich wrote:> One of the members of this board got a questionable spar from AS&S that theyreluctantly replaced because it had been mishandled. > > DaveThey weren't THAT reluctant. Once the right people were made aware of the situationthey were fairly prompt in taking care of things. Just wanted to be clearsince I think it was my spar you were speaking of. It took them about 2 daysto work it up the chain, review the evidence with their people and resolvethe matter. Other than the spar, which could have been a big deal, I've alwaysgot good products and service from AS&S. The moral of the story... regardless of the source, inspect your materials closelyand buy from an outfit that will stand behind their product.--------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 15:39:25 -0400
Re: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
Original Posted By: Ken Bickers
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted> by: "Pocono John" > > Hello everyone. I first wanted to build my own airplane in> 2004. I bought the Tony Bingelis books and some items from> EAA (such as AC 43.13). I conducted much research and> decided the Pietenpol would be the perfect airplane.> > I've been reading the posts here for a long time and saved> all the best and most informative discussions I could find.> My goal was to not bother you with questions already> answered. I'd like to thank you for all you've contributed> and I'd also like to thank those with web pages and videos.> I almost feel like I know you all. I recently joined the> local EAA group, but have not yet been able to meet anyone> there.> > So, I'm actually making preparations to use my two car> garage (no heat though; just studs and T111 siding).> > I recently decided to use the Corvair engine, assuming I> can find one. I've read the WW conversion manual and been to> all the sites involving that engine. I hope to attend> Corvair College #21 in November (hum, should I bring my> wife?).> > I still have some questions, and perhaps since I'm starting> with a clean slate, maybe you'd like to make> recommendations.> > I'd like to purchase raw lumber from Aircraft Spruce.> Customer service seems good from what I've read here. I want> to make my own pieces, so I guess I go to their site and> just buy the lumber, not the 'kit', is that correct?> > Should I worry about humidity with storing the wood? Should> I keep it in the house? Should I keep tabs on the humidity> here (I'm close to Pocono Raceway in PA).> > I had an elevated hobby room in the garage which I've now> taken apart except the floor. The floor would make a> solid work bench which is basically 4X8 and I'll cut out a 2> foot deep area on one (long) side, so lots of edge. I'm> thinking of mounting tools on the (new) table. I'm wondering> if I go with the Tony Bingelis recommendation of the 30 sq> in table, what would I use the workbench for? Space should> be OK as my wife will park outside when (and if) the time> comes.> > I plan to cut and shape wood in the garage. Ribs will be> glued in the house in my loft. When spring comes, I'll work> on fuselage and tail in the garage. If I find an engine, I> can work on that during winter in the garage (I have those> ceiling mounted radiation heaters). I can also practice> welding.> > Here's a list of tools I plan to buy. I'm wondering though,> if I have a table saw, do I still need a band saw? Also,> instead of an electric miter saw, I'm thinking I'll buy the> precision hand saw miter box (about $50). Thoughts?> > Bench grinder-Craftsman model 21124, a 6 inch 1/6 HP 2.1> amp (on sale for $47.25, normally $70).> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-6-hp-6 ... 921124000P> > Band saw-Powertec 9 inch 1/2 HP 2.5 amps.> http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BS900-Ba ... B00367WB0G> > Belt sander-Porter-Cable #91036, 4" by 8" 5 amps> http://www.lowes.com/pd_91036-46069-PCB ... Id=3163789> > Drill press-Craftsman 10" with laser trac (model 21900). 5> speeds at 6 amps, 2/3 HP.> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-34-be ... 921900000P> > Table saw-Craftsman 21807 with Laser trac is 15 amp, 10"> job with 24" to rip.> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... an%2021807> > Router-I can't decide between the Porter-Cable 690LR fixed> base> http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690L ... B00005QEVQ> ad the DeWalt DW618PK> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-Pl ... B00006JKXE> > I have more on my mind, but I should probably get my> workspace ready first. I have to add that when I study the> plans (I bought the complete set), I feel like I'm getting> in way over my head. I took a class in mechanical drawing in> college, and I've designed and built a few big projects,> plus I gutted and rebuilt a bathroom, so I hope I have some> aptitude for this. Let's put it this way, when I build> something, I take all the parts out to make sure I have> everything and organize it.> > I'm looking forward to this project. I'm glad to be here.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 193#353193> > > > > > > > Email Forum -> FAQ,> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -> List Contribution Web Site -> -Matt> Dralle, List Admin.> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:00:08 -0600Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted> by: "Pocono John" > > Hello everyone. I first wanted to build my own airplane in> 2004. I bought the Tony Bingelis books and some items from> EAA (such as AC 43.13). I conducted much research and> decided the Pietenpol would be the perfect airplane.> > I've been reading the posts here for a long time and saved> all the best and most informative discussions I could find.> My goal was to not bother you with questions already> answered. I'd like to thank you for all you've contributed> and I'd also like to thank those with web pages and videos.> I almost feel like I know you all. I recently joined the> local EAA group, but have not yet been able to meet anyone> there.> > So, I'm actually making preparations to use my two car> garage (no heat though; just studs and T111 siding).> > I recently decided to use the Corvair engine, assuming I> can find one. I've read the WW conversion manual and been to> all the sites involving that engine. I hope to attend> Corvair College #21 in November (hum, should I bring my> wife?).> > I still have some questions, and perhaps since I'm starting> with a clean slate, maybe you'd like to make> recommendations.> > I'd like to purchase raw lumber from Aircraft Spruce.> Customer service seems good from what I've read here. I want> to make my own pieces, so I guess I go to their site and> just buy the lumber, not the 'kit', is that correct?> > Should I worry about humidity with storing the wood? Should> I keep it in the house? Should I keep tabs on the humidity> here (I'm close to Pocono Raceway in PA).> > I had an elevated hobby room in the garage which I've now> taken apart except the floor. The floor would make a> solid work bench which is basically 4X8 and I'll cut out a 2> foot deep area on one (long) side, so lots of edge. I'm> thinking of mounting tools on the (new) table. I'm wondering> if I go with the Tony Bingelis recommendation of the 30 sq> in table, what would I use the workbench for? Space should> be OK as my wife will park outside when (and if) the time> comes.> > I plan to cut and shape wood in the garage. Ribs will be> glued in the house in my loft. When spring comes, I'll work> on fuselage and tail in the garage. If I find an engine, I> can work on that during winter in the garage (I have those> ceiling mounted radiation heaters). I can also practice> welding.> > Here's a list of tools I plan to buy. I'm wondering though,> if I have a table saw, do I still need a band saw? Also,> instead of an electric miter saw, I'm thinking I'll buy the> precision hand saw miter box (about $50). Thoughts?> > Bench grinder-Craftsman model 21124, a 6 inch 1/6 HP 2.1> amp (on sale for $47.25, normally $70).> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-6-hp-6 ... 921124000P> > Band saw-Powertec 9 inch 1/2 HP 2.5 amps.> http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BS900-Ba ... B00367WB0G> > Belt sander-Porter-Cable #91036, 4" by 8" 5 amps> http://www.lowes.com/pd_91036-46069-PCB ... Id=3163789> > Drill press-Craftsman 10" with laser trac (model 21900). 5> speeds at 6 amps, 2/3 HP.> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-34-be ... 921900000P> > Table saw-Craftsman 21807 with Laser trac is 15 amp, 10"> job with 24" to rip.> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... an%2021807> > Router-I can't decide between the Porter-Cable 690LR fixed> base> http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690L ... B00005QEVQ> ad the DeWalt DW618PK> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-Pl ... B00006JKXE> > I have more on my mind, but I should probably get my> workspace ready first. I have to add that when I study the> plans (I bought the complete set), I feel like I'm getting> in way over my head. I took a class in mechanical drawing in> college, and I've designed and built a few big projects,> plus I gutted and rebuilt a bathroom, so I hope I have some> aptitude for this. Let's put it this way, when I build> something, I take all the parts out to make sure I have> everything and organize it.> > I'm looking forward to this project. I'm glad to be here.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 193#353193> > > > > > > > Email Forum -> FAQ,> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -> List Contribution Web Site -> -Matt> Dralle, List Admin.> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:00:08 -0600Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Here I am...another new guy