Original Posted By: Leo Powning
Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (Ihave done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops towhatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation tomy basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shophovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!---John Duprey wrote:>> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before> using. > > good luck> John Duprey> ==http://www.wrld.com/w3builder"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Original Posted By: Rob Hart
Never use T-88 at any temp lower that 80 degf. It doesn't want to come outof the bottle. The wood doesn't matter. Just joking. T-88 claims tocure even at almost freezing temperatures. Rule of thumb is if you canstand the temperature go for it. jas>Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day>(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I>have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to>whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to>my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop>hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!>>---John Duprey wrote:>>>> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near>> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you>> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before>> using. >> >> good luck>> John Duprey>> >>==>http://www.wrld.com/w3builder>"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There >is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would >not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson>>________________________________________________________________________________
Never use T-88 at any temp lower that 80 degf. It doesn't want to come outof the bottle. The wood doesn't matter. Just joking. T-88 claims tocure even at almost freezing temperatures. Rule of thumb is if you canstand the temperature go for it. jas>Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day>(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I>have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to>whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to>my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop>hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!>>---John Duprey wrote:>>>> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near>> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you>> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before>> using. >> >> good luck>> John Duprey>> >>==>http://www.wrld.com/w3builder>"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There >is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would >not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson>>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Original Posted By: fishin
Theres no question taht I'd stand out in the cold for hours at a timeto build my plane (wouldnt we all?)! I keep my T-88 in the house whenIm not using it. Its the wood I was concerned about. I can warm thewood in front of the furnace before I start gluing, I guess. Thanks all!---Jim Sury wrote:>> > Never use T-88 at any temp lower that 80 degf. It doesn't want tocome out> of the bottle. The wood doesn't matter. Just joking. T-88claims to> cure even at almost freezing temperatures. Rule of thumb is if youcan> stand the temperature go for it. jas> > >Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day> >(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I> >have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to> >whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to> >my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop> >hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!> >> >---John Duprey wrote:> >>> >> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near> >> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible,when you> >> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before> >> using. > >> > >> good luck> >> John Duprey> >> > >> >==> >http://www.wrld.com/w3builder> >"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There > >is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would > >not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ==http://www.wrld.com/w3builder"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson________________________________________________________________________________
Theres no question taht I'd stand out in the cold for hours at a timeto build my plane (wouldnt we all?)! I keep my T-88 in the house whenIm not using it. Its the wood I was concerned about. I can warm thewood in front of the furnace before I start gluing, I guess. Thanks all!---Jim Sury wrote:>> > Never use T-88 at any temp lower that 80 degf. It doesn't want tocome out> of the bottle. The wood doesn't matter. Just joking. T-88claims to> cure even at almost freezing temperatures. Rule of thumb is if youcan> stand the temperature go for it. jas> > >Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day> >(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I> >have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to> >whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to> >my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop> >hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!> >> >---John Duprey wrote:> >>> >> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near> >> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible,when you> >> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before> >> using. > >> > >> good luck> >> John Duprey> >> > >> >==> >http://www.wrld.com/w3builder> >"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There > >is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would > >not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ==http://www.wrld.com/w3builder"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Original Posted By: ADonJr(at)aol.com
I have great luck by warming the T-88 in warm water, especially thehardener. It comes out of the bottle easier, and spreads easier. Thereduction in working time is miniscule with the higher temperature,especially with the small batches that we use.Al Swanson>>Never use T-88 at any temp lower that 80 degf. It doesn't want to come out>of the bottle. The wood doesn't matter. Just joking. T-88 claims to>cure even at almost freezing temperatures. Rule of thumb is if you can>stand the temperature go for it. jas>>>Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day>>(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I>>have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to>>whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to>>my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop>>hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!>>>>---John Duprey wrote:>>>>>> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near>>> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you>>> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before>>> using. >>> >>> good luck>>> John Duprey>>> >>>>==>>http://www.wrld.com/w3builder>>"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There >>is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would >>not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>________________________________________________________________________________
I have great luck by warming the T-88 in warm water, especially thehardener. It comes out of the bottle easier, and spreads easier. Thereduction in working time is miniscule with the higher temperature,especially with the small batches that we use.Al Swanson>>Never use T-88 at any temp lower that 80 degf. It doesn't want to come out>of the bottle. The wood doesn't matter. Just joking. T-88 claims to>cure even at almost freezing temperatures. Rule of thumb is if you can>stand the temperature go for it. jas>>>Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day>>(ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I>>have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to>>whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to>>my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop>>hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!>>>>---John Duprey wrote:>>>>>> Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near>>> constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you>>> get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before>>> using. >>> >>> good luck>>> John Duprey>>> >>>>==>>http://www.wrld.com/w3builder>>"All knowledge is of itself of some value. There >>is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would >>not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
I have my shop insulated very well . the walls have a R-20 , the ceciling hasa R - 39 . My barn is very cold here in mid Mich. during the winter . So I putin a wolminized floor that is insulated with water proof blown in typeinsulation and a 1 in. thich stirifom sheet on top then I placed a sheet of5/8 plywood on that and screwed it to the wood on the bottom . so - now thefloor has a R -16 . Most of the stuff I used came from construction sites , itwas laying in the junk pile . all i had to do was ask for thier junk . I heatmy 24 x 18 shop for pennys now . it took me about 1 1/2 years to get all thestuff togethter for the project . Most everything in the shop came from junkpiles or yard sales . My flor sense lites are throw -aways with new bulbs inthem . We have the imkproved ribs made now and are starting to lay out thefuelage within the next couple of weeks . The Corvair engine has been totallyrebuilt with duel plugs and mags . the prop is being made this spring by agood friend that has built many prop's for other people . We hope to have itcompleted by 2000 . ________________________________________________________________________________
I have my shop insulated very well . the walls have a R-20 , the ceciling hasa R - 39 . My barn is very cold here in mid Mich. during the winter . So I putin a wolminized floor that is insulated with water proof blown in typeinsulation and a 1 in. thich stirifom sheet on top then I placed a sheet of5/8 plywood on that and screwed it to the wood on the bottom . so - now thefloor has a R -16 . Most of the stuff I used came from construction sites , itwas laying in the junk pile . all i had to do was ask for thier junk . I heatmy 24 x 18 shop for pennys now . it took me about 1 1/2 years to get all thestuff togethter for the project . Most everything in the shop came from junkpiles or yard sales . My flor sense lites are throw -aways with new bulbs inthem . We have the imkproved ribs made now and are starting to lay out thefuelage within the next couple of weeks . The Corvair engine has been totallyrebuilt with duel plugs and mags . the prop is being made this spring by agood friend that has built many prop's for other people . We hope to have itcompleted by 2000 . ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Original Posted By: Richard DeCosta
Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of nearconstant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when youget wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize beforeusing. good luckJohn Duprey________________________________________________________________________________
Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of nearconstant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when youget wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize beforeusing. good luckJohn Duprey________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood Temp& Glueing
Original Posted By: Gary Gower
Richard: I submit that I am no Aircraft building expert, in fact you are aheadof me as I am just starting to build my rib jig. However I have been awood-worker (Amature and later professional) most of the last 18 years.I Don't know about your( or any one else who may read this ) experiencein wood working so I will start kind of basic and If this is stuff youallready know please bare with me, I hope you and others reading thiswill be able to take me in "baby steps" through some of the metalfabrication and other steps I will encounter in my journey.Wood is a fiber and is made to transport moisture through the tree. Whenthe wood experiences sudden temprature or humidity changes it expandsand or contracts. this effect will be stabelised later in the projectwhen airframe is varnished which will seal the wood from absorbingmoisture. The only real problems you would encounter bringing shop heat up anddown during construction would be movement of the wood wile joints aredrying, as the spruce will expand & contract more than the plywood. Iwould reccomend one of two things either don't heat your shop wile youwork (not the fun choice for winter in New England) or move inside forthe winter might be more conducive to working. Avoiding rapid climatechanges is the key. I am starting with the ribs now (in the house) asan alternitave to waiting till spring for this very reason becouse Ican't afford to heat my barn 24 hours a day all winter.Either way keep building and have fun, hope you will be able to give mehelp along the way as you are a few steps ahead of me. John DupreyRichard DeCosta wrote:> > Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day> (ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I> have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to> whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to> my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop> hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!> > ---John Duprey wrote:> >> > Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near> > constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you> > get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before> > using.> >> > good luck> > John Duprey> >> > ==> http://www.wrld.com/w3builder> "All knowledge is of itself of some value. There> is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would> not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Richard: I submit that I am no Aircraft building expert, in fact you are aheadof me as I am just starting to build my rib jig. However I have been awood-worker (Amature and later professional) most of the last 18 years.I Don't know about your( or any one else who may read this ) experiencein wood working so I will start kind of basic and If this is stuff youallready know please bare with me, I hope you and others reading thiswill be able to take me in "baby steps" through some of the metalfabrication and other steps I will encounter in my journey.Wood is a fiber and is made to transport moisture through the tree. Whenthe wood experiences sudden temprature or humidity changes it expandsand or contracts. this effect will be stabelised later in the projectwhen airframe is varnished which will seal the wood from absorbingmoisture. The only real problems you would encounter bringing shop heat up anddown during construction would be movement of the wood wile joints aredrying, as the spruce will expand & contract more than the plywood. Iwould reccomend one of two things either don't heat your shop wile youwork (not the fun choice for winter in New England) or move inside forthe winter might be more conducive to working. Avoiding rapid climatechanges is the key. I am starting with the ribs now (in the house) asan alternitave to waiting till spring for this very reason becouse Ican't afford to heat my barn 24 hours a day all winter.Either way keep building and have fun, hope you will be able to give mehelp along the way as you are a few steps ahead of me. John DupreyRichard DeCosta wrote:> > Hmmm. Thats a little tough unless I heat my shop 24 hours a day> (ouch). I pretty much only heat it when I am working on the plane (I> have done only cutting until now), so the temp in the shop drops to> whatever it is outside. Would I be better off moving my operation to> my basement for the winter, or biting the bullet and keeping my shop> hovering around 65 degrees all winter? Thanks!> > ---John Duprey wrote:> >> > Richard: You should try to keep the wood stored in an area of near> > constant temp and as close to constant humididy as posssible, when you> > get wood always give it a few days in your shop to stabelize before> > using.> >> > good luck> > John Duprey> >> > ==> http://www.wrld.com/w3builder> "All knowledge is of itself of some value. There> is nothing so minute or inconsiderable, that I would> not rather know it than not." --Samuel, Dr. Johnson> > ________________________________________________________________________________