Original Posted By: "tdudley(at)umn.edu"
Dave,Making your leading edge from 3-foot pieces of aluminum will not prevent oil canningwith temperature changes. The aluminum will expand and contract at the samerate, whether 14 feet long, or 1 foot long. Leaving small gaps between shorterpieces will probably help to reduce the buckling a bit, though. Not too sureabout epoxying sheet aluminum to wood, either. I'm pretty sure that bond willfail, sooner than later.But your comment that really got my attention was that you used that method ona different plane, and it works. Well, I suppose it does work - especially sincethat's what the plans for THAT aircraft call for.I recall reading about people having aluminum leading edge cladding on their Pietenpol,and wishing they were plywood instead (aluminum was wavier, and lessstrong). I just don't see any advantages to using aluminum on the Pietenpol wing.Bill C. > Mt LE are .016 aluminum attached with nails and epoxy. > They are in 3 ft sections ( to prevent oil canning with temp changes) > I used this on my SA-300 , works. > Dave NX1QZ Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Nailing ribs to spars
Pietenpol-List: Nailing ribs to spars
Original Posted By: "Clif Dawson"
Last month the question was raised about epoxy vs. nailing the ribs to the spars.It seemed to be that either method was acceptable and the responses givenwere in favor of nails.I am using the 4-3/4" X 3/4" solid spars. The ribs are built to plans (1/2" wideX 1/4" thick spruce attachment to the spar).I'll ask this question after reviewing the archives and after reading the Bingelisbooks-- are 20 gauge nails appropriate here or do you use 18 gauge, or doesit really even matter since the difference is so slight? To get 3X the thicknessof the surface wood (i.e., 1/4"), I plan on using nails 1" in length. Iknow it's another of my "soft" questions, but I was just interested in knowingwhat others have done that has worked.Having asked this, I promise I will not ask how to hold the hammer to place thenails.TomRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Last month the question was raised about epoxy vs. nailing the ribs to the spars.It seemed to be that either method was acceptable and the responses givenwere in favor of nails.I am using the 4-3/4" X 3/4" solid spars. The ribs are built to plans (1/2" wideX 1/4" thick spruce attachment to the spar).I'll ask this question after reviewing the archives and after reading the Bingelisbooks-- are 20 gauge nails appropriate here or do you use 18 gauge, or doesit really even matter since the difference is so slight? To get 3X the thicknessof the surface wood (i.e., 1/4"), I plan on using nails 1" in length. Iknow it's another of my "soft" questions, but I was just interested in knowingwhat others have done that has worked.Having asked this, I promise I will not ask how to hold the hammer to place thenails.TomRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Nailing ribs to spars
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Tom, the only nails I used were to keep the caps from sliding when gluing.Here is a picture of a trial spar piece I glued up.http://textors.com/sawdust_054.jpg JackDSMNX1929T-----Original Message-----
Tom, the only nails I used were to keep the caps from sliding when gluing.Here is a picture of a trial spar piece I glued up.http://textors.com/sawdust_054.jpg JackDSMNX1929T-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Nailing ribs to spars
Original Posted By: "dwilson"
Nails are just clamps for applying pressure to a glue join, they are not structuralcomponents. Nailing ribs in-place is only done to hold them in position for stitching to thecovering. Yes, there is also the weave lacing, top to bottom cap-strips, tokeep the rib from twisting under load too.After the covering is stitched to the ribs, the ribs should not move. So nailingor gluing is just acting as a temporary clamp in-away.The rib cap-strips should fit snug to the spar so it can transfer the load directlyto it. Most metal ribs on older planes are only tacked or screwed to thespar, again for the same purpose.A nail just longer enough to hold the rib in-place would be fine.--------Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Nailing ribs to spars
Nails are just clamps for applying pressure to a glue join, they are not structuralcomponents. Nailing ribs in-place is only done to hold them in position for stitching to thecovering. Yes, there is also the weave lacing, top to bottom cap-strips, tokeep the rib from twisting under load too.After the covering is stitched to the ribs, the ribs should not move. So nailingor gluing is just acting as a temporary clamp in-away.The rib cap-strips should fit snug to the spar so it can transfer the load directlyto it. Most metal ribs on older planes are only tacked or screwed to thespar, again for the same purpose.A nail just longer enough to hold the rib in-place would be fine.--------Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Nailing ribs to spars
Original Posted By: "Daniel Engelkenjohn"
Agree that the nails are only used to prevent the ribs from sliding along the spars.After the leading edge is attached and the fabric is rib stitched the ribswill not be able to move along the spars. I used 1 inch long cement coatedbrads from Wicks. Also found a nice tool to squeeze the nails into the spar.DanRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/glaz ... __________
Agree that the nails are only used to prevent the ribs from sliding along the spars.After the leading edge is attached and the fabric is rib stitched the ribswill not be able to move along the spars. I used 1 inch long cement coatedbrads from Wicks. Also found a nice tool to squeeze the nails into the spar.DanRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/glaz ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Nailing ribs to spars
Original Posted By: "womenfly2"
Yeah. I used 1/2-inch nails from ACS. If you don't drive them all the way in, they can be removed after the glue cures. Really no need to. It takes a million of them to have any weight to speak of.----- Original Message -----
Yeah. I used 1/2-inch nails from ACS. If you don't drive them all the way in, they can be removed after the glue cures. Really no need to. It takes a million of them to have any weight to speak of.----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Nailing ribs to spars
Original Posted By: Greg Bacon
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted> by: "tdudley(at)umn.edu"> > > Last month the question was raised about epoxy vs. nailing> the ribs to the spars. It seemed to be that either> method was acceptable and the responses given were in favor> of nails.> > I am using the 4-3/4" X 3/4" solid spars. The ribs> are built to plans (1/2" wide X 1/4" thick spruce attachment> to the spar).> > I'll ask this question after reviewing the archives and> after reading the Bingelis books-- are 20 gauge nails> appropriate here or do you use 18 gauge, or does it really> even matter since the difference is so slight? To get> 3X the thickness of the surface wood (i.e., 1/4"), I plan on> using nails 1" in length. I know it's another of my> "soft" questions, but I was just interested in knowing what> others have done that has worked.> > Having asked this, I promise I will not ask how to hold the> hammer to place the nails.> > Tom> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 964#359964> > > > > > > > Lists This Month --> Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)> Raiser. Click on> out more about> Gifts provided> www.aeroelectric.com> www.buildersbooks.com> www.homebuilthelp.com> -Matt> Dralle, List Admin.> Email Forum -> FAQ,> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -> List Contribution Web Site -> -Matt> Dralle, List Admin.> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 07:49:00 -0600Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Nailing ribs to spars
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted> by: "tdudley(at)umn.edu"> > > Last month the question was raised about epoxy vs. nailing> the ribs to the spars. It seemed to be that either> method was acceptable and the responses given were in favor> of nails.> > I am using the 4-3/4" X 3/4" solid spars. The ribs> are built to plans (1/2" wide X 1/4" thick spruce attachment> to the spar).> > I'll ask this question after reviewing the archives and> after reading the Bingelis books-- are 20 gauge nails> appropriate here or do you use 18 gauge, or does it really> even matter since the difference is so slight? To get> 3X the thickness of the surface wood (i.e., 1/4"), I plan on> using nails 1" in length. I know it's another of my> "soft" questions, but I was just interested in knowing what> others have done that has worked.> > Having asked this, I promise I will not ask how to hold the> hammer to place the nails.> > Tom> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 964#359964> > > > > > > > Lists This Month --> Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)> Raiser. Click on> out more about> Gifts provided> www.aeroelectric.com> www.buildersbooks.com> www.homebuilthelp.com> -Matt> Dralle, List Admin.> Email Forum -> FAQ,> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -> List Contribution Web Site -> -Matt> Dralle, List Admin.> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 07:49:00 -0600Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Nailing ribs to spars