Pietenpol-List: paint
Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Merrill"
A follow up question from a discussion last year for those who used housepaint on the Piet. Are you still happy with the results? I'm getting tothat point and am considering going that way. The thought of all thedifferent finish coats isnt very appealing.Dick N.________________________________________________________________________________
A follow up question from a discussion last year for those who used housepaint on the Piet. Are you still happy with the results? I'm getting tothat point and am considering going that way. The thought of all thedifferent finish coats isnt very appealing.Dick N.________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Richard Navratil"
Poly Fiber, PolyFiber,PolyFiber...You won't be sorry. There is no bad points to Poly Fiber.walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----
Poly Fiber, PolyFiber,PolyFiber...You won't be sorry. There is no bad points to Poly Fiber.walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
That was me. (Steve E) Still happy with the house paint. I keep my planehangered too. As I have said before, it isn't an award winner for finish,but it does look period and stands up to the elements fine. It is also verylight.Steve E.-----Original Message-----
That was me. (Steve E) Still happy with the house paint. I keep my planehangered too. As I have said before, it isn't an award winner for finish,but it does look period and stands up to the elements fine. It is also verylight.Steve E.-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Mike"
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: paintWhat type did you use, oil base or latex?Corky________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: paintWhat type did you use, oil base or latex?Corky________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Latex, Sherwin Williams. High Gloss Outdoor Steve E.-----Original Message-----
Latex, Sherwin Williams. High Gloss Outdoor Steve E.-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: del magsam
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Ken Beanlands"
Ken,What is AFS? And what would be the cost for a Piet? Yeah, your rightwhen it comes to fumes. But my point is that alot of people are using autopaint as an option, and thats in the same ballpark. Think of it as a cheaphigh. (kidding).But I'll bet that even the water based paint is toxic in an airbornsituation. And there's a good chance that in a mist form, it'sflammable/explosive.walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----
Ken,What is AFS? And what would be the cost for a Piet? Yeah, your rightwhen it comes to fumes. But my point is that alot of people are using autopaint as an option, and thats in the same ballpark. Think of it as a cheaphigh. (kidding).But I'll bet that even the water based paint is toxic in an airbornsituation. And there's a good chance that in a mist form, it'sflammable/explosive.walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----
> > Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Geez Ken,,, maybe I'm getting cheap and penny pinchin in my young years butisn't that stuff a little pricey?Looks like it is really good but I think a big savings would be to dawn therespirator and paint outside with theOld dope method. I'm curious as to how the weave is filled in aftershrinking when using outdoor house paint.And what about the UV silver? Where does that come in at? Just curious,,,,CarlPlease visit my website atwww.megsinet.net/skycarl-----Original Message-----
Geez Ken,,, maybe I'm getting cheap and penny pinchin in my young years butisn't that stuff a little pricey?Looks like it is really good but I think a big savings would be to dawn therespirator and paint outside with theOld dope method. I'm curious as to how the weave is filled in aftershrinking when using outdoor house paint.And what about the UV silver? Where does that come in at? Just curious,,,,CarlPlease visit my website atwww.megsinet.net/skycarl-----Original Message-----
> > > Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
just for reference I ended up with just less than $300 in my paint andcoatings. I figure it will give at least 5-10 years if not more. I'llprobably want to recover by then anyway...Stevee-----Original Message-----
just for reference I ended up with just less than $300 in my paint andcoatings. I figure it will give at least 5-10 years if not more. I'llprobably want to recover by then anyway...Stevee-----Original Message-----
> > > > Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: Dave and Connie
Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: Ken Beanlands
SteveHow many gallons of paint did you use? Did you use a primer first? Did itstick to the aluminum Parts ok? I havent settled on it yet but your mathhas my attention.Dick N.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 08:32:37 -0700 (MST)
SteveHow many gallons of paint did you use? Did you use a primer first? Did itstick to the aluminum Parts ok? I havent settled on it yet but your mathhas my attention.Dick N.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 08:32:37 -0700 (MST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: mboynton(at)excite.com
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
I'll do a search of the archives and repost my description, If you want itfaster yourselves, check www.matronics.com. I am in the middle of an officemove so it will be a while.steve E.-----Original Message-----
I'll do a search of the archives and repost my description, If you want itfaster yourselves, check www.matronics.com. I am in the middle of an officemove so it will be a while.steve E.-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "walter evans"
Thanks to Gary Meadows for doing the search, This one is a keeper if youthink you might be going the latex route. I reread it and discovered thingsI forgot doing!Thanks Gary!Latex Paint over Fabric Sadly, before you can paint, you must cover that beautiful wooden creationwith fabric.I found that the most helpful resource is the Poly-Fiber covering manual.It cost me $5 at the time, but even at the current price of $10 it isstill the greatest covering deal around. I poured throught that manualseveral times to get my questions answered. I even called Norm at PolyFiber about a question regarding reinforcement tapes and he was veryhelpfull and unhurried. I followed the Poly-Fiber manual with care up tothe point where you are instructed to poly-brush the entire weave of thefabric to seal the weave. I also choose to use the generic fabric fromAircraft spruce rather than the more expensive STC-PMA Poly-Fiber brand.At this point in covering you have finished heat shrinking, rib stitchingand applying all the tapes. I heat smothed all the seams again as the laststep before beginning to paint. One thing that I might regret omitting maybe washing the whole surface of the fabric before applying tapes or ribstitching with MEK. At this point however I'm not sure that it is reallynessesary. Time will tell.About the paint. I used Sherwin Williams best grade exterior laytex. Ichoose this brand because of other builders experience with its ease of useand good durability. I spend a long time researching and talking with someexperienced painters and they all agreed on the sturdiness of the product.They garentee the paint against fading shrinking, cracking and peeling.It is 100% UV formulated and has a 20 year warantee. The first coat overthe bare fabric is unthinned flat black applied by brush. I used a goodquality 4" brush. It helps to have a 2" brush to get around the smallcorners as well. This first coat is meant to fill the weave of the fabric.I took care to work it in, yet still leave it as thin as I could. Itseems that even, thin coats prevent cracking and keep the weight down.After the whole plane is painted black I went back and gave the parts thatwould recieve a dark color (green) a second coat of black. The second coatI applied with an airless sprayer. Poly-Fiber says that this is a mistake,but I has good luck spraying the second primer coat and was pleased withthe reduction in time it took. It also made for a smoother surface. Someargue that back in the 30"s and 40's that brush strokes were the norm. Forthose that would get a light finish color (white), I mixed flat whitetogether with the black (50-50 ratio) for the second coat. At this pointthen the whole plane has been primed with two coats of flat paint. At thispoint you have the choice of going with straight laytex, or using anautomotive enamal. I have seen both examples and the automotive finishwill cost about $500-$800 more for two colors, or about $150 more for thelatex. The auto enamal will naturally look glossy and lusterous. I didn'thave the $$$'s or the equipment, or the desire for a glossy finish on myplane, so I choose to continue with the latex. For the color coats I used Sherwin Williams High Gloss products. I am nota professional painter and I got a little excited when the plane began toshow some color. Unfortunately I got over anxious and didn't let enoughtime lapse between coats and the fuselage coats sagged horribly. Ipanicked. I salvaged my botched attempt by rolling the whole mess with ashort nape foam roller. I thought I had ruined the whole thing. The nextmorning however a miricale had occured and it turned out being fairlysmooth. I took more time on the wings. The finished product looks good.I'm sure I could do better next time. I hand lettered the "Air Camper"logo on the side.A few additional hints.Paint in the while temps are in the 70's. I painted in higher temps andthe exterior formula dried too quickly for propper wetting out and blendingwith previous coats.Dont be tempted to apply more than 3 color coats. You will notice that thefinish gets more and more lustrous as you do. Beware, you are adding muchunwanted weight and expence, and the likelyhood that thick buildups will crack.Experiment with applicators. I think that I will do my next finish coatswith a roller. I sprayed my wings, in the heat of the day and feel that aroller combined with cooler temps would have given better results.Durability is good. I have tested with avgas and autofuels and the latexholds up against both. The primer however peels right off. Keep fuel awayfrom parts without the finish coats. In spite of the fact that thefinished product is fuel proof, It seems to be affected by standing water.I have noticed that during a rain storm the standing beads of water willfade the finish slightly. Panic time again. Really I didn't have to worrythough, after the water evaporates the color returns without a hint of theprevious problem. I waxed a test section and this eliminated the waterspot problem.It has been nearly a year now that I have finised painting and I am verypleased to report that I have found no cracks or other problems. The planehas sat out through several snow, rain and ice storms without a problem.Touching up couldn't be easier, and the colors have remained vibrant. Ifigure that my paint costs were less than $200, and total covering costincluding poly-fiber cements and coatings were less than $500. I doubt itwill be an award winner for fine finish, but it will be inexpensive,durable, non-toxic, and protective for as long as I fly it. An addedbenefit is that I always have the option of spraying an auto finish rightover the top if I want too.Hope this is of some use.Steve E________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks to Gary Meadows for doing the search, This one is a keeper if youthink you might be going the latex route. I reread it and discovered thingsI forgot doing!Thanks Gary!Latex Paint over Fabric Sadly, before you can paint, you must cover that beautiful wooden creationwith fabric.I found that the most helpful resource is the Poly-Fiber covering manual.It cost me $5 at the time, but even at the current price of $10 it isstill the greatest covering deal around. I poured throught that manualseveral times to get my questions answered. I even called Norm at PolyFiber about a question regarding reinforcement tapes and he was veryhelpfull and unhurried. I followed the Poly-Fiber manual with care up tothe point where you are instructed to poly-brush the entire weave of thefabric to seal the weave. I also choose to use the generic fabric fromAircraft spruce rather than the more expensive STC-PMA Poly-Fiber brand.At this point in covering you have finished heat shrinking, rib stitchingand applying all the tapes. I heat smothed all the seams again as the laststep before beginning to paint. One thing that I might regret omitting maybe washing the whole surface of the fabric before applying tapes or ribstitching with MEK. At this point however I'm not sure that it is reallynessesary. Time will tell.About the paint. I used Sherwin Williams best grade exterior laytex. Ichoose this brand because of other builders experience with its ease of useand good durability. I spend a long time researching and talking with someexperienced painters and they all agreed on the sturdiness of the product.They garentee the paint against fading shrinking, cracking and peeling.It is 100% UV formulated and has a 20 year warantee. The first coat overthe bare fabric is unthinned flat black applied by brush. I used a goodquality 4" brush. It helps to have a 2" brush to get around the smallcorners as well. This first coat is meant to fill the weave of the fabric.I took care to work it in, yet still leave it as thin as I could. Itseems that even, thin coats prevent cracking and keep the weight down.After the whole plane is painted black I went back and gave the parts thatwould recieve a dark color (green) a second coat of black. The second coatI applied with an airless sprayer. Poly-Fiber says that this is a mistake,but I has good luck spraying the second primer coat and was pleased withthe reduction in time it took. It also made for a smoother surface. Someargue that back in the 30"s and 40's that brush strokes were the norm. Forthose that would get a light finish color (white), I mixed flat whitetogether with the black (50-50 ratio) for the second coat. At this pointthen the whole plane has been primed with two coats of flat paint. At thispoint you have the choice of going with straight laytex, or using anautomotive enamal. I have seen both examples and the automotive finishwill cost about $500-$800 more for two colors, or about $150 more for thelatex. The auto enamal will naturally look glossy and lusterous. I didn'thave the $$$'s or the equipment, or the desire for a glossy finish on myplane, so I choose to continue with the latex. For the color coats I used Sherwin Williams High Gloss products. I am nota professional painter and I got a little excited when the plane began toshow some color. Unfortunately I got over anxious and didn't let enoughtime lapse between coats and the fuselage coats sagged horribly. Ipanicked. I salvaged my botched attempt by rolling the whole mess with ashort nape foam roller. I thought I had ruined the whole thing. The nextmorning however a miricale had occured and it turned out being fairlysmooth. I took more time on the wings. The finished product looks good.I'm sure I could do better next time. I hand lettered the "Air Camper"logo on the side.A few additional hints.Paint in the while temps are in the 70's. I painted in higher temps andthe exterior formula dried too quickly for propper wetting out and blendingwith previous coats.Dont be tempted to apply more than 3 color coats. You will notice that thefinish gets more and more lustrous as you do. Beware, you are adding muchunwanted weight and expence, and the likelyhood that thick buildups will crack.Experiment with applicators. I think that I will do my next finish coatswith a roller. I sprayed my wings, in the heat of the day and feel that aroller combined with cooler temps would have given better results.Durability is good. I have tested with avgas and autofuels and the latexholds up against both. The primer however peels right off. Keep fuel awayfrom parts without the finish coats. In spite of the fact that thefinished product is fuel proof, It seems to be affected by standing water.I have noticed that during a rain storm the standing beads of water willfade the finish slightly. Panic time again. Really I didn't have to worrythough, after the water evaporates the color returns without a hint of theprevious problem. I waxed a test section and this eliminated the waterspot problem.It has been nearly a year now that I have finised painting and I am verypleased to report that I have found no cracks or other problems. The planehas sat out through several snow, rain and ice storms without a problem.Touching up couldn't be easier, and the colors have remained vibrant. Ifigure that my paint costs were less than $200, and total covering costincluding poly-fiber cements and coatings were less than $500. I doubt itwill be an award winner for fine finish, but it will be inexpensive,durable, non-toxic, and protective for as long as I fly it. An addedbenefit is that I always have the option of spraying an auto finish rightover the top if I want too.Hope this is of some use.Steve E________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Steve Eldredge"
Now a question. Isn't it pretty well established that auto paint doesn'tflex, and what looks good now will look like the cracked Sahara dessert intime? I saw a Fisher 404 that was done in auto paint, and a beautiful shineyjob, but the builder said that in a few years he had to recover the planeand repaint.Now if you go with the best latex house paint,,,how much is that a gal?Near $40.00?walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----
Now a question. Isn't it pretty well established that auto paint doesn'tflex, and what looks good now will look like the cracked Sahara dessert intime? I saw a Fisher 404 that was done in auto paint, and a beautiful shineyjob, but the builder said that in a few years he had to recover the planeand repaint.Now if you go with the best latex house paint,,,how much is that a gal?Near $40.00?walt---------------------------------------------------------- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: walter evans
Hi,I found out about using latex house paints when building a boat. Theconsensus of most of the wooden boat builders is thatfirst quality 100% latex paint is the equal of marine paint at a fraction ofthe cost. The best paint, according to Consumers Report magazine, is soldby Walmart. It is their Color Place brand and is often on sale for $11 or$112 per gallon. I havn't painted any planes with it but I have painted awooden fishing boat. It has spent two years in and out of the water andspent most of one summer stored outside bottom up. It looks as good as itdid when I finished it. There is a good article at:http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/articles.html#A1While it has to do with painting boats, much of the information about thepaint is of universal value.James Fuller----- Original Message -----
Hi,I found out about using latex house paints when building a boat. Theconsensus of most of the wooden boat builders is thatfirst quality 100% latex paint is the equal of marine paint at a fraction ofthe cost. The best paint, according to Consumers Report magazine, is soldby Walmart. It is their Color Place brand and is often on sale for $11 or$112 per gallon. I havn't painted any planes with it but I have painted awooden fishing boat. It has spent two years in and out of the water andspent most of one summer stored outside bottom up. It looks as good as itdid when I finished it. There is a good article at:http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/articles.html#A1While it has to do with painting boats, much of the information about thepaint is of universal value.James Fuller----- Original Message -----
RE: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Gary Meadows"
Steve, Ain't it nice to go back almost in third person, and read something you wrote years before, then realize all over again just how smart you are!:) That IS a good email on the painting!Gary________________________________________________________________________________
Steve, Ain't it nice to go back almost in third person, and read something you wrote years before, then realize all over again just how smart you are!:) That IS a good email on the painting!Gary________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "Michael Conkling"
I painted all the metal parts including the cowl, gear, struts, etc with krylon spray paint & primer . I had no problem with paintdeterioration. It has been 12 years now.Mike B Piet N687MB (Mr Sam )________________________________________________________________________________
I painted all the metal parts including the cowl, gear, struts, etc with krylon spray paint & primer . I had no problem with paintdeterioration. It has been 12 years now.Mike B Piet N687MB (Mr Sam )________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: Doug413(at)aol.com
I've had good luck using Krylon primer ("red oxide") & "satin black" painton some bicycle frames I've built -- one of the last ones has been in redprimer for the last 8 years! (guess you could say it's "primed to go"!! ;-)Not as tough as powder coat, but sure easy to touch up.Mike C.Pretty Prairie, KS ________________________________________________________________________________
I've had good luck using Krylon primer ("red oxide") & "satin black" painton some bicycle frames I've built -- one of the last ones has been in redprimer for the last 8 years! (guess you could say it's "primed to go"!! ;-)Not as tough as powder coat, but sure easy to touch up.Mike C.Pretty Prairie, KS ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: paint
Original Posted By: "C N Campbell"
OK, how come I haven't seen this classic ona Piet yet??? Even the tail's the same shape.ClifTo most people the sky is the limit.To a pilot, the sky is home.________________________________________________________________________________
OK, how come I haven't seen this classic ona Piet yet??? Even the tail's the same shape.ClifTo most people the sky is the limit.To a pilot, the sky is home.________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Spar problem
Original Posted By: "bender"
Jeff, I have absolutely no experience with a one-piece wing, but just yesterday (Feb 17) a couple of friends and I put my 3 wing pieces together for the first time. Had a little trouble getting the holes in the metal pieces to line up but after we finally got things together the wing looks OK. Picture attached. I used spruce spars, incidentally.----- Original Message -----
Jeff, I have absolutely no experience with a one-piece wing, but just yesterday (Feb 17) a couple of friends and I put my 3 wing pieces together for the first time. Had a little trouble getting the holes in the metal pieces to line up but after we finally got things together the wing looks OK. Picture attached. I used spruce spars, incidentally.----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: "Bill Church"
Everything said about the desire of the copyright holder to not make the oldBPA back issues available is true, so that is a moot point for now.However, IF you ever hear of anybody selling their collection. SNAP 'EMUP!!!I was lucky enough to be about 20 years worth with my project with the firstones from the very early eighties. They are not only an invaluable resourcefor a builder, but they are very interesting reading.The flavor was very technical and flying oriented with TONS of useful infoand stories, good and bad, to learn from. Grant had a soft spot for Fordsso the newsletter heavily promoted the "purist of the pure" Piets.Cool stories like props flying off in flight, photos of the twin towers froma Piet! (try that today.) daily logs of California to Brodhead trips withlots of forced landings on desert roads, bailing wire fixes, sleeping bagsunder wings, filling radiators from cattle ponds, Marvel Mystery oil, flyingfor four days on two sandwiches and tractor parts/bubble gum fixes. There was one year with something like 37 Piets at Brodhead.They seemed to be VERY productive decades seeing lots of Piets getting builtAND finished AND flown.Douwe________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Everything said about the desire of the copyright holder to not make the oldBPA back issues available is true, so that is a moot point for now.However, IF you ever hear of anybody selling their collection. SNAP 'EMUP!!!I was lucky enough to be about 20 years worth with my project with the firstones from the very early eighties. They are not only an invaluable resourcefor a builder, but they are very interesting reading.The flavor was very technical and flying oriented with TONS of useful infoand stories, good and bad, to learn from. Grant had a soft spot for Fordsso the newsletter heavily promoted the "purist of the pure" Piets.Cool stories like props flying off in flight, photos of the twin towers froma Piet! (try that today.) daily logs of California to Brodhead trips withlots of forced landings on desert roads, bailing wire fixes, sleeping bagsunder wings, filling radiators from cattle ponds, Marvel Mystery oil, flyingfor four days on two sandwiches and tractor parts/bubble gum fixes. There was one year with something like 37 Piets at Brodhead.They seemed to be VERY productive decades seeing lots of Piets getting builtAND finished AND flown.Douwe________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Pietenpol-List: Re: Brodhead Pietenpol Assc newsletters
Original Posted By: "BYD"
Hey Clif,How about now?(although technically, it's a GN-1, rather than a Piet)Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/larr ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Brodhead Pietenpol Assc newsletters
Hey Clif,How about now?(although technically, it's a GN-1, rather than a Piet)Bill C.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/larr ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Brodhead Pietenpol Assc newsletters
Original Posted By: Lawrence Williams
Birth of the Pietenpol AssociationThis is my recollection if someone can update the timing more accurately pleasedo so.NATIONAL PIETENPOL ASSOCIATION newsletter by Janet Green in 1977 which then becamethe INTERNATIONAL PIETENPOL ASSOCIATION in 1985 with the newsletter producedby Bob Taylor.The BUCKEYE PIETENPOL ASSOCIATION first appeared in 1983 and the newsletter wasproduced by Frank Pavliga (Dick Akire was president) and was later produced byGrant Maclaren in 1990. In 2001, the Independent Register of Brodhead, WI startedproducing the BPA newsletter and the first color copies were made. Thenaround 2005, Doc Mosher assumed the responsibility for the BPA newsletter untilthe present.This is the closest I could figure from my archive of newsletters.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 10:47:47 -0800 (PST)
Birth of the Pietenpol AssociationThis is my recollection if someone can update the timing more accurately pleasedo so.NATIONAL PIETENPOL ASSOCIATION newsletter by Janet Green in 1977 which then becamethe INTERNATIONAL PIETENPOL ASSOCIATION in 1985 with the newsletter producedby Bob Taylor.The BUCKEYE PIETENPOL ASSOCIATION first appeared in 1983 and the newsletter wasproduced by Frank Pavliga (Dick Akire was president) and was later produced byGrant Maclaren in 1990. In 2001, the Independent Register of Brodhead, WI startedproducing the BPA newsletter and the first color copies were made. Thenaround 2005, Doc Mosher assumed the responsibility for the BPA newsletter untilthe present.This is the closest I could figure from my archive of newsletters.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 10:47:47 -0800 (PST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By:> > Clif Dawson > hey ya'll. Has anyone tried to build the wheel pants that are in the flying andglider 1932 magazine? Gardiner> > --- On Sat, 2/18/12, Clif Dawson
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By:> > Clif Dawson > hey ya'll. Has anyone tried to build the wheel pants that are in the flying and glider 1932 magazine? Gardiner> > --- On Sat, 2/18/12, Clif Dawson
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: airlion
ven.d.dortch(at)us.army.mil>For a real speed mod try these wheel pants that Jim Bede developed:Go in about 2.5 min to see the wheelpantshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMOyNCiMPOQBlue Skies,Steve D----- Original Message -----
ven.d.dortch(at)us.army.mil>For a real speed mod try these wheel pants that Jim Bede developed:Go in about 2.5 min to see the wheelpantshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMOyNCiMPOQBlue Skies,Steve D----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: airlion
Ha! Now we're talkin! :-)Needs wheel pants to complete the scheme though.Clif> Hey Clif,> > How about now?> (although technically, it's a GN-1, rather than a Piet)> > Bill C.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:59:03 -0800 (PST)
Ha! Now we're talkin! :-)Needs wheel pants to complete the scheme though.Clif> Hey Clif,> > How about now?> (although technically, it's a GN-1, rather than a Piet)> > Bill C.________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:59:03 -0800 (PST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: airlion
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paintFor a real speed mod try these wheel pants that Jim Bede developed:Go in about 2.5 min to see the wheelpantshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMOyNCiMPOQBlue Skies,Steve D----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paintFor a real speed mod try these wheel pants that Jim Bede developed:Go in about 2.5 min to see the wheelpantshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMOyNCiMPOQBlue Skies,Steve D----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: Ron Eisaman
What's the airport ID please?ToolsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
What's the airport ID please?ToolsRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: "Jack Phillips"
Hello Group, I am back after many years, again attempting to finish my Piet within my lifetime. Long ago, I bought some laser-cut parts to make control horns. The "certified welder" I used screwed everything up, so I want to try again. With my 30 second memory span, I forgot where I got them. Can you help?Ron Eisamanrdwdsgn(at)aol.com________________________________________________________________________________
Hello Group, I am back after many years, again attempting to finish my Piet within my lifetime. Long ago, I bought some laser-cut parts to make control horns. The "certified welder" I used screwed everything up, so I want to try again. With my 30 second memory span, I forgot where I got them. Can you help?Ron Eisamanrdwdsgn(at)aol.com________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Lasers aren't really necessary. The thin (.032") steel sheet used to makethe horns can be easily cut with tin snips or even a good pair of scissors.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____
Lasers aren't really necessary. The thin (.032") steel sheet used to makethe horns can be easily cut with tin snips or even a good pair of scissors.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: "Jack(at)textors.com"
Thanks Jack! I have figured in +2" in my cabane struts, based upon what severalof you have told me looks and works good. With that additional distance I believeI came up with a 31* angle, which is where I set my lift strut attach points.Looking back, I'm not sure if I would have done it that way again. Ithink it will work just fine based upon what others have done, but there is certainlyno benefit, as you pointed out. pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net wrote:> When I started building my wings, I looked at the odd attachment of the lift> strut fittings that were shown in the plans and started to redesign them to> be in line with the lift struts (as more moderne airplanes do), but first I> decided to do a stress analysis on the design. What I found surprised me,> and gave me a lot more respect for Mr. Pietenpol as an engineer. His design> puts a moment (a "twisting force") on the spar, which partially counteracts> the bending moment induced by lift along the span of the wing. The result> is that the stress within the spar is reduced slightly by using the design> in the plans, so I left mine that way and did not change it. > > I'm glad I didn't change the design because I would have made the angle of> the fitting wrong anyway, since long after I built the wing I decided to> make my cabanes taller than the plans show, which changed the angle the lift> strut makes with the spar anyway.> > Jack Phillips> NX899JP> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia> > ----------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Thanks Jack! I have figured in +2" in my cabane struts, based upon what severalof you have told me looks and works good. With that additional distance I believeI came up with a 31* angle, which is where I set my lift strut attach points.Looking back, I'm not sure if I would have done it that way again. Ithink it will work just fine based upon what others have done, but there is certainlyno benefit, as you pointed out. pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net wrote:> When I started building my wings, I looked at the odd attachment of the lift> strut fittings that were shown in the plans and started to redesign them to> be in line with the lift struts (as more moderne airplanes do), but first I> decided to do a stress analysis on the design. What I found surprised me,> and gave me a lot more respect for Mr. Pietenpol as an engineer. His design> puts a moment (a "twisting force") on the spar, which partially counteracts> the bending moment induced by lift along the span of the wing. The result> is that the stress within the spar is reduced slightly by using the design> in the plans, so I left mine that way and did not change it. > > I'm glad I didn't change the design because I would have made the angle of> the fitting wrong anyway, since long after I built the wing I decided to> make my cabanes taller than the plans show, which changed the angle the lift> strut makes with the spar anyway.> > Jack Phillips> NX899JP> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia> > ----------Mark ChouinardWings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on FuselageRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: Ken Bickers
Ken Perkins Kenandvernaperkins(at)sbcglobal.netJack TextorSent from my iPadOn Feb 20, 2012, at 6:37 AM, Ron Eisaman wrote:> Hello Group,> I am back after many years, again attempting to finish my Piet within my lifetime. Long ago, I bought some laser-cut parts to make control horns. The "certified welder" I used screwed everything up, so I want to try again. With my 30 second memory span, I forgot where I got them. Can you help?> > > Ron Eisaman> rdwdsgn(at)aol.com> > > > > ============================================================================================================================================> ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 10:48:53 -0700Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Ken Perkins Kenandvernaperkins(at)sbcglobal.netJack TextorSent from my iPadOn Feb 20, 2012, at 6:37 AM, Ron Eisaman wrote:> Hello Group,> I am back after many years, again attempting to finish my Piet within my lifetime. Long ago, I bought some laser-cut parts to make control horns. The "certified welder" I used screwed everything up, so I want to try again. With my 30 second memory span, I forgot where I got them. Can you help?> > > Ron Eisaman> rdwdsgn(at)aol.com> > > > > ============================================================================================================================================> ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 10:48:53 -0700Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: airlion
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: "airlion"
Likewise, Gardiner, I made mine out of .090, also. I felt that the welded ones from thinner material were too complicated for my old mind. Chuck----- Original Message -----
Likewise, Gardiner, I made mine out of .090, also. I felt that the welded ones from thinner material were too complicated for my old mind. Chuck----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Original 1930s Strut Tubing
Original Posted By: Rick Schreiber
I agree with Don.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 09:06:38 -0600
I agree with Don.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 09:06:38 -0600
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wings are on!
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Looks great, Rick. What is that project in the hangar with you, a Fairchild24?Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
Looks great, Rick. What is that project in the hangar with you, a Fairchild24?Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: Wings are on!
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Looks great Rick congrats. When you get a minute could you take someclose up pics of the adjustable wing support for the group. Thanks.BrianSLC-UT-----Original Message-----
Looks great Rick congrats. When you get a minute could you take someclose up pics of the adjustable wing support for the group. Thanks.BrianSLC-UT-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Wings are on!
Original Posted By: Rick Schreiber
Pietenpol-List: Wing brace wires
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
> > Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: paint
Original Posted By: "Gary Boothe"
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted> > by: "Clif Dawson" > > > Ha! Now we're talkin!
> > Needs wheel pants to complete the scheme though.> > > > Clif> > > > > > > Hey Clif,> > > > > > How about now?> > > (although technically, it's a GN-1, rather than a> > Piet)> > > > > > Bill C.> > > > > > Email Forum -> > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -> > List Contribution Web Site -> > -Matt> > Dralle, List Admin.> > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted> > by: "Clif Dawson" > > > Ha! Now we're talkin!
