Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
Re: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
absolutely right, but keep in mind that the firewall is also there to keep something like, say, an exhaust leak, from starting a fire or blowing on a gas tank, for those of you with tanks in front of the front seat.Gene ----- Original Message -----
absolutely right, but keep in mind that the firewall is also there to keep something like, say, an exhaust leak, from starting a fire or blowing on a gas tank, for those of you with tanks in front of the front seat.Gene ----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "Billy McCaskill"
Looking real nice, Jeff! You're making great progress...--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Looking real nice, Jeff! You're making great progress...--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "Douwe Blumberg"
Maybe try a propane torch? I think the stainless is acting like a giant heat sinkand is dissipating the heat from the heat gun too quickly to break down thebond of the adhesive.--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Maybe try a propane torch? I think the stainless is acting like a giant heat sinkand is dissipating the heat from the heat gun too quickly to break down thebond of the adhesive.--------Billy McCaskillUrbana, ILtail section almost done, starting on ribs soonRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "carson"
is the marine ply you used Meranti or Okume ?i doesn't look like douglas fir..i've been thinking of going the same route. one because of locally available woodtwo for strength and weight.it looks goodjeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
is the marine ply you used Meranti or Okume ?i doesn't look like douglas fir..i've been thinking of going the same route. one because of locally available woodtwo for strength and weight.it looks goodjeffRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "Dangerous Dave"
Thanks for the feedback.Yes ... the RPM range is the real issue ... there are lots of things you can dowith an engine that is going to do lots of RPM but at the normal range we swinga prop it really limits the options.The Lion Speed Head IV on Scalded Speed Parts offers 6.5 to 1 in Aluminum withan 8 plug option.Pieti Lowell's comment concerning a progressive two barrel makes a lot of sensefor both low and mid range power, IMO.I always thought, though, that big values hurt mixing-flow/torque at low RPMs ...is there an ideal size of the 2000-2500 RPM range?--------Perry ShipmanLakeside, CARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Thanks for the feedback.Yes ... the RPM range is the real issue ... there are lots of things you can dowith an engine that is going to do lots of RPM but at the normal range we swinga prop it really limits the options.The Lion Speed Head IV on Scalded Speed Parts offers 6.5 to 1 in Aluminum withan 8 plug option.Pieti Lowell's comment concerning a progressive two barrel makes a lot of sensefor both low and mid range power, IMO.I always thought, though, that big values hurt mixing-flow/torque at low RPMs ...is there an ideal size of the 2000-2500 RPM range?--------Perry ShipmanLakeside, CARead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "Jerry Dotson"
Howdy,going to start painting em tomorrow.Yeah no more stitching!dave--------Covering PietRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/2011 ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Howdy,going to start painting em tomorrow.Yeah no more stitching!dave--------Covering PietRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/2011 ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "Douwe Blumberg"
I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35 minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying. Scott Knowlton Burlington Ontario DQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQo________________________________________________________________________________
I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35 minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying. Scott Knowlton Burlington Ontario DQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQo________________________________________________________________________________
RE: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Very nicely done. JerrySky Classic Aircraft-----Original Message-----
Very nicely done. JerrySky Classic Aircraft-----Original Message-----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By:> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewallScott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward?Jack TextorSent from my iPad> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY wrote:> > > Very nicely done. > > Jerry> Sky Classic Aircraft> > -----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewallScott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward?Jack TextorSent from my iPad> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY wrote:> > > Very nicely done. > > Jerry> Sky Classic Aircraft> > -----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: rib jig
Original Posted By: Jack Textor
I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know mostwait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove assoon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....ifypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?--------Jon JonesIronton, MORead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know mostwait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove assoon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....ifypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?--------Jon JonesIronton, MORead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
Original Posted By: Scott Knowlton
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib jigJon, I would suggest not messing with plexi, just drill about a 1/2-3/4 hole at each joint, like this http://textors.com/RibDetail.jpgJack TextorSent from my iPad> On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:25 AM, wheelharp wrote:> > > I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?> > --------> Jon Jones> Ironton, MO> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 907#460907> > > > > > > ===============================================================================================================================================================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib jigJon, I would suggest not messing with plexi, just drill about a 1/2-3/4 hole at each joint, like this http://textors.com/RibDetail.jpgJack TextorSent from my iPad> On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:25 AM, wheelharp wrote:> > > I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?> > --------> Jon Jones> Ironton, MO> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 907#460907> > > > > > > ===============================================================================================================================================================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
Original Posted By: Scott Knowlton
I wouldn't advocate removing the rib from the jig until the glue has cured - 24hours is a good rule of thumb. Really the only clamping pressure remaining whenyou remove a rib that hasn't cured is where the nails or staples are imbedded.All of the other surface of each gusset comes under pressure with the woodnaturally trying to return to whatever small directional pressure it was underprior to being put in to the jig. Allowing it to cure in the jig will be thebest insurance that you will have 33 ribs with the exact shape of the airfoiland contact points to the spar. Only my opinion here after building my ribs.Scott K > On Oct 3, 2016, at 10:28 AM, wheelharp wrote:> > > I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I knowmost wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders removeas soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop rightoff....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?> > --------> Jon Jones> Ironton, MO> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 907#460907> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
I wouldn't advocate removing the rib from the jig until the glue has cured - 24hours is a good rule of thumb. Really the only clamping pressure remaining whenyou remove a rib that hasn't cured is where the nails or staples are imbedded.All of the other surface of each gusset comes under pressure with the woodnaturally trying to return to whatever small directional pressure it was underprior to being put in to the jig. Allowing it to cure in the jig will be thebest insurance that you will have 33 ribs with the exact shape of the airfoiland contact points to the spar. Only my opinion here after building my ribs.Scott K > On Oct 3, 2016, at 10:28 AM, wheelharp wrote:> > > I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I knowmost wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders removeas soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop rightoff....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?> > --------> Jon Jones> Ironton, MO> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 907#460907> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By:>> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Thanks Jack. I'm pretty new at this airplane building thing so perhaps I'm notthe best practice to follow... a rather knowledgable guy on our field told methat all small continentals leak a little oil now and again (blow by, prop seal,leaky rocker cover, spilt oil on top up...). He said if I want to limit theresidue to the belly of the airplane a good strategy is to face the flange ofthe firewall forward vs aft. So that is my plan. I'll tell you in five yearsif it worked!!Scott > On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:12 AM, Jack Textor wrote:> > > Scott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward?> > Jack Textor> > Sent from my iPad> >> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY wrote:>> >> >> Very nicely done. >> >> Jerry>> Sky Classic Aircraft>> >> -----Original Message-----
Thanks Jack. I'm pretty new at this airplane building thing so perhaps I'm notthe best practice to follow... a rather knowledgable guy on our field told methat all small continentals leak a little oil now and again (blow by, prop seal,leaky rocker cover, spilt oil on top up...). He said if I want to limit theresidue to the belly of the airplane a good strategy is to face the flange ofthe firewall forward vs aft. So that is my plan. I'll tell you in five yearsif it worked!!Scott > On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:12 AM, Jack Textor wrote:> > > Scott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward?> > Jack Textor> > Sent from my iPad> >> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY wrote:>> >> >> Very nicely done. >> >> Jerry>> Sky Classic Aircraft>> >> -----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: rib jig
Original Posted By: "Fairfield, Mike"
I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know mostwait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove assoon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....ifypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?--------Jon JonesIronton, MORead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know mostwait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove assoon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....ifypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?--------Jon JonesIronton, MORead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
RE: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
Good morning all,This is the jig that I made by taking info from all the members that were smarter than I, and putting it all together in one jig.The holes let the extra epoxy fall through the board. Once I nail my gussets in place, I flip it over and gusset the other side. You will see these little round dark circles on the jig. These are slices from an old rake handle around 1/4" thick. I drilled one hole off center by about 1/8" right through. I also drilled two holes about 1/8" deep to be able to use my long-nose pliers to turn these little cams to bring the wood tight up against the shape formers. I plotted the shape formers on the 2" x 12"with the dimensions on the plan. Then I took 2 lengths of 5/16" spruce and curved it an glued it and nailed it to follow the plans specifications for the airfoil. All my ribs came out extremely close to each other for the airfoil, not even off by a 1/16".I found that this really worked well. Thanks to all the members who inspired me with their ideas.Mike.-----Original Message-----
Good morning all,This is the jig that I made by taking info from all the members that were smarter than I, and putting it all together in one jig.The holes let the extra epoxy fall through the board. Once I nail my gussets in place, I flip it over and gusset the other side. You will see these little round dark circles on the jig. These are slices from an old rake handle around 1/4" thick. I drilled one hole off center by about 1/8" right through. I also drilled two holes about 1/8" deep to be able to use my long-nose pliers to turn these little cams to bring the wood tight up against the shape formers. I plotted the shape formers on the 2" x 12"with the dimensions on the plan. Then I took 2 lengths of 5/16" spruce and curved it an glued it and nailed it to follow the plans specifications for the airfoil. All my ribs came out extremely close to each other for the airfoil, not even off by a 1/16".I found that this really worked well. Thanks to all the members who inspired me with their ideas.Mike.-----Original Message-----
Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: "Lorenzo"
Jon,I looked at a lot of rib jibs from other builders before I built mine. I too used plexi-glass over my rib drawing, but the T-88 did stick a little after the 24hr cure. So I just cut little pieces of Saran wrap and put under each glue joint and it peels right off after T-88 is cured.BrianMeridian, Idaho________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Jon,I looked at a lot of rib jibs from other builders before I built mine. I too used plexi-glass over my rib drawing, but the T-88 did stick a little after the 24hr cure. So I just cut little pieces of Saran wrap and put under each glue joint and it peels right off after T-88 is cured.BrianMeridian, Idaho________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: cessna7226g(at)aol.com
I agree with others here. I did gussets on one side in the jig. Leave the partsin the jig until glue is dry. Then remove the rib and gusset the other side.I just used clamps - not nails or staples. A Harbor Freight tabletop thin-beltsander cleaned up any drips before gusseting the 2nd side. Holes in the jig ateach joint prevent anything sticking. Cams with wing nuts hold the pieces inplace on the jig for assembly.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf ... ______Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2016 21:16:05 -0400
I agree with others here. I did gussets on one side in the jig. Leave the partsin the jig until glue is dry. Then remove the rib and gusset the other side.I just used clamps - not nails or staples. A Harbor Freight tabletop thin-beltsander cleaned up any drips before gusseting the 2nd side. Holes in the jig ateach joint prevent anything sticking. Cams with wing nuts hold the pieces inplace on the jig for assembly.Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ttachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf ... ______Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2016 21:16:05 -0400
Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: "taildrags"
Thanks for replies and very good photos everyone. Our EAA chapter is having a dinner,and we are going to build a few ribs afterwards. I may show some of thesephotos if that is ok.--------Jon JonesIronton, MORead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Thanks for replies and very good photos everyone. Our EAA chapter is having a dinner,and we are going to build a few ribs afterwards. I may show some of thesephotos if that is ok.--------Jon JonesIronton, MORead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: "taildrags"
Scott; my airplane has a Continental A75 but it has also flown behind an A65 andI would have to agree with the rather knowledgeable guy on your field when hesays that they all tend to seep or drip now and again. Both of mine have beenlightly generous with oil during their time in operation. Mine dumps a littlebit of oil mist out the crankcase breather tube when in cruise flight butI plan to fit an oil separator to the tube to eliminate that.The prop seal shouldn't be contributing anything but if it is, you can replacethe seal and get a tight fit there again. All it takes is one new seal, aboutan hour of time, a copy of "The Sailor's Illustrated Book of Swear Words" (internationalversion is best), and a few simple hand tools. I've done it and livedto tell about it, and now my prop seal is dry as a bone. If you attemptit, note carefully the instruction that comes with the seal about using coarseemery cloth to lightly score a reverse-screw pattern onto the prop shaft whereit passes through the seal. This provides a subtle but effective screwing-backaction on any oil that tries to creep out past the seal along the shaft surface.That detail was missed during the engine rebuild and the shiny-new overhauledshaft provided a perfect path for oil to creep out past the seal untilI did the emery cloth thing and installed a new seal. Fixed.When my A75 was completely overhauled and rebuilt, I scrounged together a matchingset of four stamped rocker covers (the cast ones are more rigid but heavier),overhauled them, repainted them, and installed "Real Gasket" silicone gasketsin hopes of eliminating seeps and drips from them. The stock cork rockercover gaskets harden over time and trying to tighten the screws only makes thingsworse. I've found the silicone gaskets to be better about this, but I stillhave one rocker cover that will drip when the oil is good and hot (thin), andanother that tries to do the same but only manages a thin seep. Still, thepropwash picks that up and zings it back onto the windscreen, belly, and fuselageside in a very fine mist that picks up dust and grime during taxi operations.I don't have any spilled oil on top of my engine. It's all on the bottom ;o) Everytime I check my oil, I have to have a paper or rag handy, because there isno way to pull the dipstick without getting some oil somewhere. I always dripsome when I pull the stick just far enough to read the numbers, but manageto touch the stick to the filler neck while I'm reading and -zoop!- a little bitof oil runs down the outside of the filler neck. Hate when that happens!Anyway, your fluting and flanging job on the firewall looks great (mine is stainlesstoo, but flat), but I think facing the flange forward in hopes of reducingoil back on the fuselage and cowl is pretty much wishful thinking. Let usknow how it works, though! Personally, I think it adds to my image on the rampif I walk away from the airplane with some oil and grime on my clothes afterbrushing against the wing strut leading edge or side of the fuselage after aflight. I smell like a real pilot that way, too ;o)--------Oscar ZunigaMedford, ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 power, 72x36 Culver propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Scott; my airplane has a Continental A75 but it has also flown behind an A65 andI would have to agree with the rather knowledgeable guy on your field when hesays that they all tend to seep or drip now and again. Both of mine have beenlightly generous with oil during their time in operation. Mine dumps a littlebit of oil mist out the crankcase breather tube when in cruise flight butI plan to fit an oil separator to the tube to eliminate that.The prop seal shouldn't be contributing anything but if it is, you can replacethe seal and get a tight fit there again. All it takes is one new seal, aboutan hour of time, a copy of "The Sailor's Illustrated Book of Swear Words" (internationalversion is best), and a few simple hand tools. I've done it and livedto tell about it, and now my prop seal is dry as a bone. If you attemptit, note carefully the instruction that comes with the seal about using coarseemery cloth to lightly score a reverse-screw pattern onto the prop shaft whereit passes through the seal. This provides a subtle but effective screwing-backaction on any oil that tries to creep out past the seal along the shaft surface.That detail was missed during the engine rebuild and the shiny-new overhauledshaft provided a perfect path for oil to creep out past the seal untilI did the emery cloth thing and installed a new seal. Fixed.When my A75 was completely overhauled and rebuilt, I scrounged together a matchingset of four stamped rocker covers (the cast ones are more rigid but heavier),overhauled them, repainted them, and installed "Real Gasket" silicone gasketsin hopes of eliminating seeps and drips from them. The stock cork rockercover gaskets harden over time and trying to tighten the screws only makes thingsworse. I've found the silicone gaskets to be better about this, but I stillhave one rocker cover that will drip when the oil is good and hot (thin), andanother that tries to do the same but only manages a thin seep. Still, thepropwash picks that up and zings it back onto the windscreen, belly, and fuselageside in a very fine mist that picks up dust and grime during taxi operations.I don't have any spilled oil on top of my engine. It's all on the bottom ;o) Everytime I check my oil, I have to have a paper or rag handy, because there isno way to pull the dipstick without getting some oil somewhere. I always dripsome when I pull the stick just far enough to read the numbers, but manageto touch the stick to the filler neck while I'm reading and -zoop!- a little bitof oil runs down the outside of the filler neck. Hate when that happens!Anyway, your fluting and flanging job on the firewall looks great (mine is stainlesstoo, but flat), but I think facing the flange forward in hopes of reducingoil back on the fuselage and cowl is pretty much wishful thinking. Let usknow how it works, though! Personally, I think it adds to my image on the rampif I walk away from the airplane with some oil and grime on my clothes afterbrushing against the wing strut leading edge or side of the fuselage after aflight. I smell like a real pilot that way, too ;o)--------Oscar ZunigaMedford, ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 power, 72x36 Culver propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: Ray Krause
It's impossible to grow tired of seeing ribs and rib jigs. They seem to capturethe essence of flight just by virtue of the airfoil shape combined with thetrussed structure, the wood, and the glue. Not even sitting in a bare wood fuselagegives me the same feeling of flight as seeing bare wing ribs. Sittingin a fuselage always makes me think of lining it up for landing with an imaginaryrunway centerline straight ahead, but wing ribs always say "flying" and "airplane"to me.--------Oscar ZunigaMedford, ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 power, 72x36 Culver propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
It's impossible to grow tired of seeing ribs and rib jigs. They seem to capturethe essence of flight just by virtue of the airfoil shape combined with thetrussed structure, the wood, and the glue. Not even sitting in a bare wood fuselagegives me the same feeling of flight as seeing bare wing ribs. Sittingin a fuselage always makes me think of lining it up for landing with an imaginaryrunway centerline straight ahead, but wing ribs always say "flying" and "airplane"to me.--------Oscar ZunigaMedford, ORAir Camper NX41CC "Scout"A75 power, 72x36 Culver propRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... __________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: Scott Knowlton
Oscar,I agree!Ray KrauseSent from my iPad> On Oct 4, 2016, at 9:12 PM, taildrags wrote:> > > It's impossible to grow tired of seeing ribs and rib jigs. They seem to capturethe essence of flight just by virtue of the airfoil shape combined with thetrussed structure, the wood, and the glue. Not even sitting in a bare woodfuselage gives me the same feeling of flight as seeing bare wing ribs. Sittingin a fuselage always makes me think of lining it up for landing with an imaginaryrunway centerline straight ahead, but wing ribs always say "flying" and"airplane" to me.> > --------> Oscar Zuniga> Medford, OR> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 952#460952> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Oscar,I agree!Ray KrauseSent from my iPad> On Oct 4, 2016, at 9:12 PM, taildrags wrote:> > > It's impossible to grow tired of seeing ribs and rib jigs. They seem to capturethe essence of flight just by virtue of the airfoil shape combined with thetrussed structure, the wood, and the glue. Not even sitting in a bare woodfuselage gives me the same feeling of flight as seeing bare wing ribs. Sittingin a fuselage always makes me think of lining it up for landing with an imaginaryrunway centerline straight ahead, but wing ribs always say "flying" and"airplane" to me.> > --------> Oscar Zuniga> Medford, OR> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 952#460952> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Stainless firewall
Original Posted By: MacBook Pro
Thanks Oscar. I suppose your oil leak prevention strategy should be somethingI adopt rather than just my simple "containment" plan. I always enjoy readingyour posts. Great way to start a day! Scott K > On Oct 5, 2016, at 12:06 AM, taildrags wrote:> > > Scott; my airplane has a Continental A75 but it has also flown behind an A65and I would have to agree with the rather knowledgeable guy on your field whenhe says that they all tend to seep or drip now and again. Both of mine havebeen lightly generous with oil during their time in operation. Mine dumps a littlebit of oil mist out the crankcase breather tube when in cruise flight butI plan to fit an oil separator to the tube to eliminate that.> > The prop seal shouldn't be contributing anything but if it is, you can replacethe seal and get a tight fit there again. All it takes is one new seal, aboutan hour of time, a copy of "The Sailor's Illustrated Book of Swear Words" (internationalversion is best), and a few simple hand tools. I've done it andlived to tell about it, and now my prop seal is dry as a bone. If you attemptit, note carefully the instruction that comes with the seal about using coarseemery cloth to lightly score a reverse-screw pattern onto the prop shaft whereit passes through the seal. This provides a subtle but effective screwing-backaction on any oil that tries to creep out past the seal along the shaftsurface. That detail was missed during the engine rebuild and the shiny-new overhauledshaft provided a perfect path for oil to creep out past the seal untilI did the emery cloth thing and installed a new seal. Fixed.> > When my A75 was completely overhauled and rebuilt, I scrounged together a matchingset of four stamped rocker covers (the cast ones are more rigid but heavier),overhauled them, repainted them, and installed "Real Gasket" silicone gasketsin hopes of eliminating seeps and drips from them. The stock cork rockercover gaskets harden over time and trying to tighten the screws only makes thingsworse. I've found the silicone gaskets to be better about this, but I stillhave one rocker cover that will drip when the oil is good and hot (thin),and another that tries to do the same but only manages a thin seep. Still, thepropwash picks that up and zings it back onto the windscreen, belly, and fuselageside in a very fine mist that picks up dust and grime during taxi operations.> > I don't have any spilled oil on top of my engine. It's all on the bottom ;o)Every time I check my oil, I have to have a paper or rag handy, because thereis no way to pull the dipstick without getting some oil somewhere. I alwaysdrip some when I pull the stick just far enough to read the numbers, but manageto touch the stick to the filler neck while I'm reading and -zoop!- a littlebit of oil runs down the outside of the filler neck. Hate when that happens!> > Anyway, your fluting and flanging job on the firewall looks great (mine is stainlesstoo, but flat), but I think facing the flange forward in hopes of reducingoil back on the fuselage and cowl is pretty much wishful thinking. Let usknow how it works, though! Personally, I think it adds to my image on the rampif I walk away from the airplane with some oil and grime on my clothes afterbrushing against the wing strut leading edge or side of the fuselage aftera flight. I smell like a real pilot that way, too ;o)> > --------> Oscar Zuniga> Medford, OR> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 951#460951> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks Oscar. I suppose your oil leak prevention strategy should be somethingI adopt rather than just my simple "containment" plan. I always enjoy readingyour posts. Great way to start a day! Scott K > On Oct 5, 2016, at 12:06 AM, taildrags wrote:> > > Scott; my airplane has a Continental A75 but it has also flown behind an A65and I would have to agree with the rather knowledgeable guy on your field whenhe says that they all tend to seep or drip now and again. Both of mine havebeen lightly generous with oil during their time in operation. Mine dumps a littlebit of oil mist out the crankcase breather tube when in cruise flight butI plan to fit an oil separator to the tube to eliminate that.> > The prop seal shouldn't be contributing anything but if it is, you can replacethe seal and get a tight fit there again. All it takes is one new seal, aboutan hour of time, a copy of "The Sailor's Illustrated Book of Swear Words" (internationalversion is best), and a few simple hand tools. I've done it andlived to tell about it, and now my prop seal is dry as a bone. If you attemptit, note carefully the instruction that comes with the seal about using coarseemery cloth to lightly score a reverse-screw pattern onto the prop shaft whereit passes through the seal. This provides a subtle but effective screwing-backaction on any oil that tries to creep out past the seal along the shaftsurface. That detail was missed during the engine rebuild and the shiny-new overhauledshaft provided a perfect path for oil to creep out past the seal untilI did the emery cloth thing and installed a new seal. Fixed.> > When my A75 was completely overhauled and rebuilt, I scrounged together a matchingset of four stamped rocker covers (the cast ones are more rigid but heavier),overhauled them, repainted them, and installed "Real Gasket" silicone gasketsin hopes of eliminating seeps and drips from them. The stock cork rockercover gaskets harden over time and trying to tighten the screws only makes thingsworse. I've found the silicone gaskets to be better about this, but I stillhave one rocker cover that will drip when the oil is good and hot (thin),and another that tries to do the same but only manages a thin seep. Still, thepropwash picks that up and zings it back onto the windscreen, belly, and fuselageside in a very fine mist that picks up dust and grime during taxi operations.> > I don't have any spilled oil on top of my engine. It's all on the bottom ;o)Every time I check my oil, I have to have a paper or rag handy, because thereis no way to pull the dipstick without getting some oil somewhere. I alwaysdrip some when I pull the stick just far enough to read the numbers, but manageto touch the stick to the filler neck while I'm reading and -zoop!- a littlebit of oil runs down the outside of the filler neck. Hate when that happens!> > Anyway, your fluting and flanging job on the firewall looks great (mine is stainlesstoo, but flat), but I think facing the flange forward in hopes of reducingoil back on the fuselage and cowl is pretty much wishful thinking. Let usknow how it works, though! Personally, I think it adds to my image on the rampif I walk away from the airplane with some oil and grime on my clothes afterbrushing against the wing strut leading edge or side of the fuselage aftera flight. I smell like a real pilot that way, too ;o)> > --------> Oscar Zuniga> Medford, OR> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 951#460951> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Re: fuselage joining
Original Posted By: "taildrags"
Hi,Thanks to those who offered suggestions re: my fuselage joining. I agree that thecorrect method is to lay the cross braces flat so as to maximise the joiningsurfaces. I started to change mine but have given up. I hate retreating, andit was making a mess of what I considered a reasonable job. Id rather put insome extra blocks or braces, even though it will increase the weight.On a very steep learning curve here, but enjoying every step.Cheers from way down-under.David Boarder (Tasmania)dboarder(at)internode.on.net________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: fuselage joining
Hi,Thanks to those who offered suggestions re: my fuselage joining. I agree that thecorrect method is to lay the cross braces flat so as to maximise the joiningsurfaces. I started to change mine but have given up. I hate retreating, andit was making a mess of what I considered a reasonable job. Id rather put insome extra blocks or braces, even though it will increase the weight.On a very steep learning curve here, but enjoying every step.Cheers from way down-under.David Boarder (Tasmania)dboarder(at)internode.on.net________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: fuselage joining