Original Posted By: Keith Hodge
Gardiner,Here are a couple photos showing the jam nut on the fork threads, providing for the adjustment and locking ability. I am not an engineer, I can't imagine a corrosion problem between the fork threads and the 7075 aluminum insert. Maybe someone with more technical knowledge could chime in (Jack or Bill) and give us the official low-down. Hope this helps.Dan HelsperPuryear, TN ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2012 13:29:01 +0000
Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: airlion
Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
On my aluminum struts I also used steel straps to mount the jury struts- but Iput a layer of very heavy poly tape that is used to wrap pipelines with underground.Iwas concerned with the possibility of corrosion but also the tendencyof aluminum to wear fast of it is under vibration against another hard surface.RaymondRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
On my aluminum struts I also used steel straps to mount the jury struts- but Iput a layer of very heavy poly tape that is used to wrap pipelines with underground.Iwas concerned with the possibility of corrosion but also the tendencyof aluminum to wear fast of it is under vibration against another hard surface.RaymondRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ___Subject: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: "rorichts"
Keith,Here is a link from ACS for the Piper J-3 forks I used.http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... ts1.phpDan HelsperPuryear, TN________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Keith,Here is a link from ACS for the Piper J-3 forks I used.http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... ts1.phpDan HelsperPuryear, TN________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: Keith Hodge
As for building ribs to what extent if any is sanding the joints and gussets apart of the process? I have been told to hold to a minimum because of the sandedmaterial degrading the integrity of the joint.thanksrichRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2012 23:24:30 +0000
As for building ribs to what extent if any is sanding the joints and gussets apart of the process? I have been told to hold to a minimum because of the sandedmaterial degrading the integrity of the joint.thanksrichRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2012 23:24:30 +0000
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: "rorichts"
Rich,You have been told correctly. The sanded material fills the pores of the wood and can prevent proper adhesive absorption.If you do sand the parts make sure you vacuum the pieces before applying adhesive.Best practice is to lightly scrape the pieces just before glueing.That being said, I did some very unscientific testing by glueing sanded pieces together with T88. The glue joints did not fail.Greg CardinalMinneapolis----- Original Message -----
Rich,You have been told correctly. The sanded material fills the pores of the wood and can prevent proper adhesive absorption.If you do sand the parts make sure you vacuum the pieces before applying adhesive.Best practice is to lightly scrape the pieces just before glueing.That being said, I did some very unscientific testing by glueing sanded pieces together with T88. The glue joints did not fail.Greg CardinalMinneapolis----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: Ben Charvet
Thanks for the help, wanting to error (maybe not a good choice of word) anywaywill redo wing and call the first part of the cost of education. It has been andinteresting experience.thanks againrichRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2012 22:05:24 -0500
Thanks for the help, wanting to error (maybe not a good choice of word) anywaywill redo wing and call the first part of the cost of education. It has been andinteresting experience.thanks againrichRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... ______Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2012 22:05:24 -0500
Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
You shouldn't have any=2C especially if the fork is cadmium plated and if your really concerned=2C used some dielectric compound on the threads. But=2C then=2C like you I am not an engineer.Doug DeverIn beautiful Stow OhioSubject: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
You shouldn't have any=2C especially if the fork is cadmium plated and if your really concerned=2C used some dielectric compound on the threads. But=2C then=2C like you I am not an engineer.Doug DeverIn beautiful Stow OhioSubject: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Pietenpol-List:
Original Posted By: Ben Charvet
OK, Gotta start building floats for the Piet!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-mpvvcI ... edClifLife should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, joystick in one hand, beer in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 06:39:40 -0500
OK, Gotta start building floats for the Piet!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-mpvvcI ... edClifLife should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, joystick in one hand, beer in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 06:39:40 -0500
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: rib jig
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
Dan, question. I just obtained a set of Taylorcraft struts. They have a adjusting gadget on the wing-end of the rear strut. It is in the strut at an angle because of the V-strut arrangement. It probably has only 1/2-inch of adjustment. Is that enough? I will have to cut the end of the strut off and have it re-welded so that it comes out of the strut straight rather than at an angle. Any suggestions? Chuck ----- Original Message -----
Dan, question. I just obtained a set of Taylorcraft struts. They have a adjusting gadget on the wing-end of the rear strut. It is in the strut at an angle because of the V-strut arrangement. It probably has only 1/2-inch of adjustment. Is that enough? I will have to cut the end of the strut off and have it re-welded so that it comes out of the strut straight rather than at an angle. Any suggestions? Chuck ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: helspersew(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat boxAn option to the plans-drawn hat box is to dispense with the box altogether and simply use a plywood'floor' glued to the underside of under the upper longerons as I did shown below. This setup providesa very welcomed increase in storage behind the pilot.Mike C.[cid:image002.jpg(at)01CCDF75.EFED3650]________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Subject: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat boxAn option to the plans-drawn hat box is to dispense with the box altogether and simply use a plywood'floor' glued to the underside of under the upper longerons as I did shown below. This setup providesa very welcomed increase in storage behind the pilot.Mike C.[cid:image002.jpg(at)01CCDF75.EFED3650]________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat box
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Subject: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat boxAn option to the plans-drawn hat box is to dispense with the box altogether and simply use a plywood'floor' glued to the underside of under the upper longerons as I did shown below. This setup providesa very welcomed increase in storage behind the pilot.Mike C.[cid:image001.jpg(at)01CCDF7E.F2F4BAE0]________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:19:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat boxAn option to the plans-drawn hat box is to dispense with the box altogether and simply use a plywood'floor' glued to the underside of under the upper longerons as I did shown below. This setup providesa very welcomed increase in storage behind the pilot.Mike C.[cid:image001.jpg(at)01CCDF7E.F2F4BAE0]________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:19:32 -0800 (PST)
Original Posted By: C N Campbell
Chuck,Well yes, 1/2" adjustment is enough, but that is providing you figured pretty darn close to perfect in the first place. I used a rotating laser light level before I decided on a final cut length on my struts. I had the one-piece wing attached and held up in position by some temporary wooden props to hold up the wingtips. Double and triple check this before cutting. That is my advise. Can anyone else expound on this subject? Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
Chuck,Well yes, 1/2" adjustment is enough, but that is providing you figured pretty darn close to perfect in the first place. I used a rotating laser light level before I decided on a final cut length on my struts. I had the one-piece wing attached and held up in position by some temporary wooden props to hold up the wingtips. Double and triple check this before cutting. That is my advise. Can anyone else expound on this subject? Dan HelsperPuryear, TN-----Original Message-----
RE: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat box
Original Posted By: michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat boxOn Behalf Of Gene Ramboyes, but that does not do anything to strengthen the forward bulkhead.GeneGene- I don't have a hat box and I can put my full 195 pounds on the turtledeck withmy simple scalloped plywood overlay and the stringers.Actually my bulkhead is even weaker than a hatboxed bulkhead because I have a big half-moon cutout door in my bulkheadand I still don't have a hatbox and haven't needed it to "strengthen my forward bulkhead any."Anyway, it doesn't much matter as I haven't heard of any turtledecks caving in on anyone lately.....with hatboxesor without:).Mike C.[cid:image001.jpg(at)01CCDF7E.F2F4BAE0]
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: thinking outside the hat boxOn Behalf Of Gene Ramboyes, but that does not do anything to strengthen the forward bulkhead.GeneGene- I don't have a hat box and I can put my full 195 pounds on the turtledeck withmy simple scalloped plywood overlay and the stringers.Actually my bulkhead is even weaker than a hatboxed bulkhead because I have a big half-moon cutout door in my bulkheadand I still don't have a hatbox and haven't needed it to "strengthen my forward bulkhead any."Anyway, it doesn't much matter as I haven't heard of any turtledecks caving in on anyone lately.....with hatboxesor without:).Mike C.[cid:image001.jpg(at)01CCDF7E.F2F4BAE0]
RE: Pietenpol-List: Jack's radio racks (Rymes don't it)
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Hi Shad,I used the mounting tray designed for the radio and built a support frame ofaluminum angle to hold the tray, with a piano hinge just behind the spar sothat by loosening two screws, the whole assembly can swing down, allowingthe radio to be slid out of the tray for service. I did something similaron the other side for the transponder. I made sheet metal fairings to coverthe bottom of the centersection on each side to cover the avionics, as shownbelow:On the whole, it works very well. I have to move my head out into theslipstream to read the settings on the transponder, but I never turn it onunless I'm flying into a Class C airspace. I bought all the avionics onebay for a total cost of less than $400.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____
Hi Shad,I used the mounting tray designed for the radio and built a support frame ofaluminum angle to hold the tray, with a piano hinge just behind the spar sothat by loosening two screws, the whole assembly can swing down, allowingthe radio to be slid out of the tray for service. I did something similaron the other side for the transponder. I made sheet metal fairings to coverthe bottom of the centersection on each side to cover the avionics, as shownbelow:On the whole, it works very well. I have to move my head out into theslipstream to read the settings on the transponder, but I never turn it onunless I'm flying into a Class C airspace. I bought all the avionics onebay for a total cost of less than $400.Jack PhillipsNX899JPSmith Mountain Lake, Virginia _____
RE: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
Just a thought.those of us using wood struts have no means of adjusting thestruts, short of making new brackets or connectors. When I asked Douwe howhe managed, he merely said to measure and drill holes carefully. I suspectthat is what Kevin did, too.Gary from CoolNX308MB
Just a thought.those of us using wood struts have no means of adjusting thestruts, short of making new brackets or connectors. When I asked Douwe howhe managed, he merely said to measure and drill holes carefully. I suspectthat is what Kevin did, too.Gary from CoolNX308MB
Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: shad bell
Chuck,I used those Taylorcraft adjustable strut ends on my Pietenpol rear struts. I simply cut them out of the old struts and removed the old weld bead with a file, and polished them. Then, using the rear T-Craft strut material cut to the proper length, I installed these adjustable units at the outboard end with an AN 5 bolt installed vertically through the minor axis of the streamline tubing. This hole is 90 degrees to the slotted hole in the adjustable fitting and provides a universal, self-aligning, strut end similar in function to the strut ends shown on the plans. I welded teardrop-shaped reinforcement doublers at both ends of the rear struts. The inboard ends were pinched in a bit to fit over the fuselage fittings. It was necessary to provide a spacer at the outboard ends to fill the space between the spar fittings and the T-Craft adjustable strut ends. The front struts are similar, but are made from Aeronca front strut material (I used what was available "at the right price" because I was poor at the time). For the outboard end, I used 1 inch square tubing with holes drilled at 90 degrees to provide the self-aligning feature. Any adjustment can be made by simply cutting and drilling another piece of square tubing to the desired length. (This method could also be used for the rear struts.)Since these struts are open at both ends, it is a good idea to coat the inside with linseed oil or something similar for corrosion protection.This arrangement has worked well for over 41 years and 800+ hours of fun flying. It also provides flexibility if the wing is moved fore and aft for CG adjustment by loosening (and, of course, retightening) the vertical bolts.Cheers,Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN in Alberta, Canada)________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:43:30 -0800 (PST)
Chuck,I used those Taylorcraft adjustable strut ends on my Pietenpol rear struts. I simply cut them out of the old struts and removed the old weld bead with a file, and polished them. Then, using the rear T-Craft strut material cut to the proper length, I installed these adjustable units at the outboard end with an AN 5 bolt installed vertically through the minor axis of the streamline tubing. This hole is 90 degrees to the slotted hole in the adjustable fitting and provides a universal, self-aligning, strut end similar in function to the strut ends shown on the plans. I welded teardrop-shaped reinforcement doublers at both ends of the rear struts. The inboard ends were pinched in a bit to fit over the fuselage fittings. It was necessary to provide a spacer at the outboard ends to fill the space between the spar fittings and the T-Craft adjustable strut ends. The front struts are similar, but are made from Aeronca front strut material (I used what was available "at the right price" because I was poor at the time). For the outboard end, I used 1 inch square tubing with holes drilled at 90 degrees to provide the self-aligning feature. Any adjustment can be made by simply cutting and drilling another piece of square tubing to the desired length. (This method could also be used for the rear struts.)Since these struts are open at both ends, it is a good idea to coat the inside with linseed oil or something similar for corrosion protection.This arrangement has worked well for over 41 years and 800+ hours of fun flying. It also provides flexibility if the wing is moved fore and aft for CG adjustment by loosening (and, of course, retightening) the vertical bolts.Cheers,Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN in Alberta, Canada)________________________________________________________________________________Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:43:30 -0800 (PST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: Michael Perez
Why not? You have metal bracketing down there,don't you?So here is a idea. Just a beginning, mind you.Possibilities abound. :-)ClifThe intuitive mind is a sacred gift and the rational mindis a faithful servant.We have created a society that honours the servantand has forgotten the gift.Albert Einstein Just a thought.those of us using wood struts have no means of adjusting the struts, short of making new brackets or connectors. Gary from Cool NX308MB ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 05:55:21 -0800 (PST)
Why not? You have metal bracketing down there,don't you?So here is a idea. Just a beginning, mind you.Possibilities abound. :-)ClifThe intuitive mind is a sacred gift and the rational mindis a faithful servant.We have created a society that honours the servantand has forgotten the gift.Albert Einstein Just a thought.those of us using wood struts have no means of adjusting the struts, short of making new brackets or connectors. Gary from Cool NX308MB ________________________________________________________________________________Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 05:55:21 -0800 (PST)
Re: Pietenpol-List: Question about lower fork ends- aluminum struts
Original Posted By: Graham Hansen
Graham, thanks a bunch for your advice. I'm using the T-craft struts for both the front and rear. The outside ends of the front struts will work as is. I'll have to do something at the inside ends -- probably the same as the Pietenpol plans. ----- Original Message -----
Graham, thanks a bunch for your advice. I'm using the T-craft struts for both the front and rear. The outside ends of the front struts will work as is. I'll have to do something at the inside ends -- probably the same as the Pietenpol plans. ----- Original Message -----
Original Posted By: Doug Dever
Gardiner=2CHere are a couple photos showing the jam nut on the fork threads=2C providing for the adjustment and locking ability. I am not an engineer=2C I can't imagine a corrosion problem between the fork threads and the 7075 aluminum insert. Maybe someone with more technical knowledge could chime in (Jack or Bill) and give us the official low-down. Hope this helps.Dan HelsperPuryear=2C TN ________________________________________________________________________________
Gardiner=2CHere are a couple photos showing the jam nut on the fork threads=2C providing for the adjustment and locking ability. I am not an engineer=2C I can't imagine a corrosion problem between the fork threads and the 7075 aluminum insert. Maybe someone with more technical knowledge could chime in (Jack or Bill) and give us the official low-down. Hope this helps.Dan HelsperPuryear=2C TN ________________________________________________________________________________