Original Posted By: Craig Aho
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistencyPieters,Had this problem 13 years ago and have forgotten how it was solved. Spar distances. The fullsize layout indicates 27 3/4 in distance between spars inside measurements. If you measure the layout you will find a distance of 28 1/4. Who should I believe. Need your comments before I cut wood.Corky________________________________________________________________________________
Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with. Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On the main wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib plan to decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck ----- Original Message -----
My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with. Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On the main wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib plan to decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck ----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Original Posted By: _Isablcorky(at)aol.com_ (mailto:Isablcorky(at)aol.com)
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistencyIn a message dated 5/2/2013 6:26:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, cncampbell(at)windstream.net writes:My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with. Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On themain wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib planto decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistencyIn a message dated 5/2/2013 6:26:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, cncampbell(at)windstream.net writes:My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with. Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On themain wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib planto decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Original Posted By: _Isablcorky(at)aol.com_ (mailto:Isablcorky(at)aol.com)
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistencyIn a message dated 5/2/2013 6:26:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, cncampbell(at)windstream.net writes:My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with. Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On themain wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib planto decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistencyIn a message dated 5/2/2013 6:26:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, cncampbell(at)windstream.net writes:My full-size rib plan measures 27-11/16 spar to spar. That's the reason that full-size rib plan should not be used to build your rib jig with. Paper shrinks or expands with the changes in temperature and humidity. On themain wing plan, there is a drawing at the top of the page giving the dimensions on how to lay out the wing rib. Suggest you use that wing rib planto decorate your shop wall and lay out the rib on the piece of whatever you are going to use for the jig, using the diminsions from the main drawing. Then, come in 6-3/4 inches from the front of the rib to the front of the spar (if you plan to use a 1-inch thick spar) use 7 inches from the front of the rib if you're using a 3/4 inch thick spar (which is what I did). Then use the wing rib plan to establish the verticals and diagonal pieces. KEEP THE 27-3/4 DIMENSION FROM THE REAR OF THE FRONT SPAR TO THE FRONT OF THE REAR SPAR. Chuck----- Original Message -----
Re: Pietenpol-List: Plans inconsistency
Original Posted By: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Anything else you need advice about don't lhesitate to yell! The guys on this list are more than happy to expound on their vast store of knowledge :>) Chuck ----- Original Message -----
Anything else you need advice about don't lhesitate to yell! The guys on this list are more than happy to expound on their vast store of knowledge :>) Chuck ----- Original Message -----
Pietenpol-List: Re: Plans inconsistency
Original Posted By: "jarheadpilot82"
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> ity.org>> > Here is a pic of my planes front view. The axle is 1.5 inches by 0.125 wall and is original to the plane. It does not have anything extra in the center of it. At times I do have a little bow in the axle when loaded to gross weight. I do not have any brakes which means that the axle is full floating and can rotate should a wheel run low on grease. Ask me how I know. It is hard on the bungee cords when that happens. My feeling is to just use the heavier wall tube and don't worry about it. When it does bend or flex a little it add some camber to the wheels. I think that would make for a little better handling qualities. > > My 3 cents. (adjusted for inflation)> > --------> Scott Liefeld> Flying N11MS since March 1972> Steel Tube> C-85-12> Wire Wheels> Brodhead in 1996> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 858#399858> > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet_115_234.jpg> > > > ============================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Plans inconsistency
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com> ity.org>> > Here is a pic of my planes front view. The axle is 1.5 inches by 0.125 wall and is original to the plane. It does not have anything extra in the center of it. At times I do have a little bow in the axle when loaded to gross weight. I do not have any brakes which means that the axle is full floating and can rotate should a wheel run low on grease. Ask me how I know. It is hard on the bungee cords when that happens. My feeling is to just use the heavier wall tube and don't worry about it. When it does bend or flex a little it add some camber to the wheels. I think that would make for a little better handling qualities. > > My 3 cents. (adjusted for inflation)> > --------> Scott Liefeld> Flying N11MS since March 1972> Steel Tube> C-85-12> Wire Wheels> Brodhead in 1996> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p ... 858#399858> > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet_115_234.jpg> > > > ============================================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Plans inconsistency
